Just a little mechanical knowledge...

[rocket83]

I mentioned it awhile back but I figured Id post up my findings. I read on jeepforum that we can run a 15w-40 in our jeeps and have a much quieter engine along with a thicker oil for heat resistance. Went to pick up some oil for a change next week and saw all kinds of diesel additives for the motors and wasnt sre if that would hurt gas motors. Checked with my shop teacher tonight and he has said that its actually better to use the diesel oil weights if you can because they have a zinc additive that helps protect metal on metal wear and tear. He also said that he did extensive research on the top names and found that Rotella is the best of them. So just figured I pass on the knowledge I got tonight to my fellow jeepers. Run 15w-40 Rotella oil for a quieter engine and better protection from wear. Especially for us high milage guys.

[HillBillE]

I ran the Rotella 15W-40 in my CJ before the motor rebuild. Now I run Valvoline MaxLife.

My buddy has run the 15W-40 for years with no problems. But it's a bit thick for the winter up here:D

[Ivester_99_Wrangler]

Honestly, I put 15-40 last week and seriously the ticking sounds as if it has gotten louder. When I accelerate it gets louder and faster. No pedal= no noise, more pedal = more noise. Manifolf exhaust leak??? Lifter??? It's so annoying. Gears werent complete today so tomm during lunch hopefully...

[norcalholler]

from my experiences with 15-40... it really dose not do any thing for making the motor stop ticking unless you buy the high dollar synthetic stuff.. reg 15-40\ is sticky to coat your motor...but it has been known to cause motor seals to fail becuz its thicker.. and on start up it can make alot of engine pressure... i have know 4 friends that have blown out rear main seals out of 2 tj's 1 xj and 1 zj.. my 2 cents... take it or leave it

[XJ Stryker]

Been running Rotella 15/40 in both my xj's for a few years now. Great Oil!

[78CJFive]

I run Shell Rotella 15-40 in my CJ.

I've heard that the zinc additives are better for older motors that used to burn leaded fuel, and not needed in newer applications, like TJ's. Not sure how true this is. I will continue using it in my CJ, it got my pressure back to where it should be and seems to run better because of it. Hard to say though because it got a lot of tune up parts at the same time I switched to the Rotella.

[norcalholler]

The reason rotella oil seems to help everyone quiet their motors down is simple. Rotella is one of the few oil brands that still uses zinc in their oil. The zinc is a major quality for any flat tappet lifter engine, the lifters need the zinc to reduce the friction between the flat tappet lifter and the camshaft. If you think about it a flat tappet design is basically a metal to metal contact where there is basically no tollerence between the lifter and cam, unlike the tollerence between a rod bearing and crank. The zinc coats the lifter and acts as a barrier against the two metal surfaces reducing wear and any sort of tic. Im still not sure why most companys stopped adding zinc to their formula but i know rotella and summit brand oils still do. If your not sure whether your oil has zinc then just read the bottle. Now from what ive read if your Car burns oil It burns the Zinc which can cause your 02 sensors to foul up quicker and the cat to work more less efficiently all the 4.0's ARE FLAT TAPPET which if you got ticking more likely the Lifters have wore into the Cam cause's spots on it which will give you ticking even if you change lifters the zinc helps reduce the friction and actually coats it.

[XJ Stryker]

The reason rotella oil seems to help everyone quiet their motors down is simple. Rotella is one of the few oil brands that still uses zinc in their oil. The zinc is a major quality for any flat tappet lifter engine, the lifters need the zinc to reduce the friction between the flat tappet lifter and the camshaft. If you think about it a flat tappet design is basically a metal to metal contact where there is basically no tollerence between the lifter and cam, unlike the tollerence between a rod bearing and crank. The zinc coats the lifter and acts as a barrier against the two metal surfaces reducing wear and any sort of tic. Im still not sure why most companys stopped adding zinc to their formula but i know rotella and summit brand oils still do. If your not sure whether your oil has zinc then just read the bottle. Now from what ive read if your Car burns oil It burns the Zinc which can cause your 02 sensors to foul up quicker and the cat to work more less efficiently all the 4.0's ARE FLAT TAPPET which if you got ticking more likely the Lifters have wore into the Cam cause's spots on it which will give you ticking even if you change lifters the zinc helps reduce the friction and actually coats it.


Great info right there :beer:

[norcalholler]

shell oil co is trying to bid for a full contract to supply the 81st RSC with all of the oil that it use's.. so they put a class together for about 50 people from the 81st.. and i was one of them... and the info was the only thing i remember from the class... hehe

[Rob0051]

Hey rocket83, I have seen your jeep outside of the CTC auto craft shop and I had some questions about that. Do you have to be enrolled in CTC in order to take shop classed there or is it open to anyone that wants to pay and learn? The reason I am asking is I am having a lot of issues with my jeep and I would really like to get smart so that I can fix everything for myself instead of relying on these half A@# mechanics in town. thanks for any info.

[Ivester_99_Wrangler]

You can use auto craft shp located behind ctc shop. $3.50 and hour to use lift bay...Every tool you need...

[Rob0051]

I have taken the class to use the shop and I intend on doing it, but I was trying to get some instruction so that I can figure out the basics. I am having a hell of a time getting my jeep to run right and was looking for some info on why it is doing what it is doing.

[Ivester_99_Wrangler]

Where in Etown do you live? I know a couple of the guys here live in Etown...

[rocket83]

I have taken the class to use the shop and I intend on doing it, but I was trying to get some instruction so that I can figure out the basics. I am having a hell of a time getting my jeep to run right and was looking for some info on why it is doing what it is doing.
You have to go through ctc to go to school at that shop. You also have to start off with the basic level class which is pretty much like this is a wrench and this is a screwdriver. Boring but you get to work on your vehicle for free.

And as far as worrying about the bad mechanics around town, the only good one is craig from pirate 4x4. But you would really only need to go to him for a gear install. But really anything else, one of us jeepers will be able to help. I can pretty much find out how to do anything, it just depedns on whether or not im willing to try it. lol

But what exactly is it doing?

[Rob0051]

Ivester - I live off of the 1600 behind the Hospital.

Rocket - Where to begin?? It has been sitting for years and I am now just getting it out and trying to get it running. I have had a ton of issues with it running/idling rough and back firing. I have replaced the plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, carb and had a mechanic replace the exhaust manifold due to a really bad exhaust leak. I got it back from the mechanic and go to adjust the carb and notice the manifold is glowing bright red after I warmed up the engine. I go to shut it off and it doesn't shut off; which leads me to the timing is off, but I check it and it is right where the book says it should be. Once I popped the clutch it shut off then I started it again and the same thing happened, so I wait about a minute and the engine finally dies, but right before it shut off it made a load whining noise and the fan turned the opposite direction. Ever since the last time the fan went the wrong direction I can't even get it to remain running. Any thoughts??????

[rocket83]

Ivester - I live off of the 1600 behind the Hospital.

Rocket - Where to begin?? It has been sitting for years and I am now just getting it out and trying to get it running. I have had a ton of issues with it running/idling rough and back firing. I have replaced the plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, carb and had a mechanic replace the exhaust manifold due to a really bad exhaust leak. I got it back from the mechanic and go to adjust the carb and notice the manifold is glowing bright red after I warmed up the engine. I go to shut it off and it doesn't shut off; which leads me to the timing is off, but I check it and it is right where the book says it should be. Once I popped the clutch it shut off then I started it again and the same thing happened, so I wait about a minute and the engine finally dies, but right before it shut off it made a load whining noise and the fan turned the opposite direction. Ever since the last time the fan went the wrong direction I can't even get it to remain running. Any thoughts??????
Ill have to talk to my guru about that one. Never heard of such a thing. Ill have an answer if he even knows, on monday around 2100.

[korisu56]

holy shit. PM crazy4ink also. that sounds like a puzzle.

[armymedic]

The glowing manifold sounds like a very lean lean condition. you see it happen alot on sport bikes when they try to lean them up to get more power.