Body Lifts and Shifter Weirdness

[JSimmons]

Hello all,

Okay...so I installed my JKS body lift this weekend. I can't help but notice that it created a bit of a gap between the shifter and the trans tunnel. Going into 2nd and 4th seems a bit more difficult than before. Is there anything I need to adjust to help return things to a more normal state? FYI - I did install the JKS MML as well.

One other thing - has anyone had any problems getting the body lift and motor mounts to line up properly? The driver's side for both lifts on my TJ are a bit crooked and the new bolts did not thread-in nice and easy. Everything is nice and tight...but I can't help but feel like some of them might be cross-threaded.

Thanks for any help rendered!

[korisu56]

What size BL buddy? When I had a bigger body lift on I had to lose my console. Ways around this are heating up your shifter and re-bending, notching your console, or figuring out what's wrong.

[JSimmons]

It's a 1.25" JKS body lift. Nothing extreme. Just wondered if there was any hidden Jeeper knowledge out there about what to do in this situation. It's not really bothering me that much other than 2nd being a bit "notchy" and just plain looking like crap.

Then again...it is a Jeep.

[korisu56]

If it's only 1.25" I dunno. Wait for someone a bit more knowledgeable than myself :)

[miljeep]

I installed the same BL and there were no issues on my end. I also did the MML at the same time, also a JKS

[94GC52]

The stock angle on your shifter rod is what is causing your issue. If you remove all of the plastic/console you should be able to see where the stick is hitting the body tub. Like Korisu said, you have two fixes bending the rod, or just shaving down some of the sheetmetal. IF you have a suspension lift on your TJ and installed the transfercase drop kit you have even further "adjusted" how far down your transmission sits.

[USMCHarleyJeepGuy]

Another option is to throw a Hurst short throw shifter in it (the B&M's have similar angles and sometimes still have interference). The shifter configuration and angles are COMPLETELY different, and the crisp/positive feel of the shifter is insane compared to stock. Yes, they are two bills, but I promise you...it is worth it!

[muddyluxury]

I would say just grind the tub a bit, and Miljeep didnt have issues because he has an auto trans and its one link that dosen't get angry at a little bit of added space.

[sincitycj]

Another option is to throw a Hurst short throw shifter in it (the B&M's have similar angles and sometimes still have interference). The shifter configuration and angles are COMPLETELY different, and the crisp/positive feel of the shifter is insane compared to stock. Yes, they are two bills, but I promise you...it is worth it!


I would whole heartedly agree. I dropped a Hurst in my 86 CJ7 and love the thing. Throws are alot shorter.

[korisu56]

I drove USMCharleyJeepGuy's jeep with a hurst in it. One of those suckers will be finding their way into my jeep. Difference is unreal

[theyeti1775]

Cheap option as mentioned is tub snipping.
Better option is the Hurst.

[USMCHarleyJeepGuy]

I drove USMCharleyJeepGuy's jeep with a hurst in it. One of those suckers will be finding their way into my jeep. Difference is unreal

YEAH...my Heep shifts SMMmmoooooovvvv!!! :D

[JSimmons]

Hurst Shifter - sounds like one more thing to convince the wife of that is absolutely essential to proper operation of the rig.

As for the BL and MML...I think I need to go back and see if the the body/chassis have worked out any of the previous misalignment in the past few days. That...or the PO did something he never told me about when I bought the rig...

[Poor Boy]

i'm my old tj, it was as simple as cutting off a little neoprene sleeve under the shifter boot.

[treefrog]

Just stop right there and step away from the tin snips and torches.

I had the same issues with mine, TJ, 1.25"JKS body lift and 1" motor mount lift. I also put on a Jeep medic skid.

This is what you need to look for....When you pull the shifter back into 2nd or 4th, is your shifter boot bunching up? That's what causes it to not totally engage in 2nd or 4th.
The easy fix is to pop the shifter boot loose. Just pry up on the little frame it's mounted to. You do not have to take it all of the way off, just get it free from the console. Spin it around on the shifter so the front end is now at the back and put it back on.
You are done.
The reason this works is because frame the boot attaches to is shorter on the front end. When you spin it around to the back, the boot won't bunch up enough to prevent the shifter from engaging properly.
Best thing is that it only takes about 30 seconds and all you need is a little flat tip screwdriver.
It worked for mine, but your mileage may vary. Hope this bit of info help.

[distortedtj]

or pull up the shifter boot and cut off the piece of foam junk around the shifter rod.

[JSimmons]

treefrog,

Awesome. I'll try it. Only problem is that the little plastic frame kind of broke...nothing superglue can't fix.

distortedtj - I think the PO already got around to it.