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HillBillE
01-23-2008, 15:27
I usd the write ups from 4x4wire, to do a couple mods on my T-case.
Very well written, and easy to follow. http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/dana300/

Things to do when............
..........................it's below zero for 2 weeks.

Improving the T-case:
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/hillbillecj7/CJ%20Rebuild%202%20Dec07/D300rbuild001.jpg
In addition to new roller bearings, shift fork pads and seals, I ground the rear shift rail detent a bit more, allowing me to have front axle hi range (rear in nuetral) The way it's done, I can't put the rear axle in low and front axle in hi, binding the case up.
With just the twinsticks, I could only have front axle only low, now I can have front axle only high. Not sure what I'll use it for, but it looked like a cool mod to do!

I also drilled and tapped the case, to install a sight tube. Since I'm clocking my T-case, the fill hole will be 2-3'' higher than normal, so I can't use that to check fill level anymore.
The red arrows are where I drilled and tapped (1/8th'' NPT) And the dotted yellow lie is where the clear sight tube will run.
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/hillbillecj7/CJ%20Rebuild%202%20Dec07/D300rbuild004sighttube.jpg
Close up of new tapping:
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/hillbillecj7/CJ%20Rebuild%202%20Dec07/D300rbuild005.jpg

HillBillE
01-28-2008, 16:41
Finally got the peices for the site tube. 1/8th'' male pipe x 1/4'' tubing.

Afterwards I did find some 1/8th pipe to 3/8th'' tubing adapters, I may go with that, as it's easier to see. Here is the finished T-case with the 1/4' site tube attatched:

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/hillbillecj7/CJ%20Rebuild%202%20Dec07/D300rbuild006.jpg

As this is how the case will lay when clocked, using the fill hole to check the level wouldn't work very well.

miljeep
01-28-2008, 19:24
looks nice. Maybe some day I will get off my butt and post something cool like this.

02tj
01-29-2008, 08:53
nice, any shots of it in the jeep?

HillBillE
01-29-2008, 11:48
nice, any shots of it in the jeep?

Not yet, I should have the motor bck from being rebuilt this Thursday (1 Feb 08), then everything's going back in. I'll have some shots of it in, and what had to be done for the clocking and crossmember, along with the skidplate(s). HB

BESRK
01-29-2008, 19:13
Are you gonna twin stick it? I just ordered the stainless twin stick setup off eBay for my 300. I got a Teralow 4 to 1 kit in trade and picked up a clocking ring too. Plan is to flat mount it as much as possible and build a nice belly skid for it.. maybe skin it with 3/16" or 1/4".

I like that color blue..

HillBillE
01-29-2008, 22:08
Yes, I had already twinsticked it, while it was apart, I also ground the shift rail, to allow Front axle HI (rear axle in N). That mod is also in the 4x4wire link in my first post. Very easy to do while the case is apart.

korisu56
01-29-2008, 22:12
What are the prereq's for a belly up? What do you have to adjust? If I could just take 1/4" steel and cut and drill holes, I would, but I have no idea how to compensate the driveline angles....

HMRRSQ
01-30-2008, 08:15
I remember thoses days of having a T-case apart on the bench.

HillBillE
01-30-2008, 11:12
What are the prereq's for a belly up? What do you have to adjust? If I could just take 1/4" steel and cut and drill holes, I would, but I have no idea how to compensate the driveline angles....

Not sure on the CJ. I have a 1'' body lift, which will help, but I may have to do some body clearancing on the floor board for the T-case. The lowest part hanging down will be the tranny mount, about 2'' lower than the clocked T-case. The front drive shaft will need to be lengthened, but from my research/questions I've asked, it won't hit the starter on the 258.

I hope to have my motor back tomorrow,so I can start fitting things up. Problem is, it's -20 below with windchills of -40 to -60 right now!! Been home with the kids (school cancelled) for 2 days now, instead of at the shop getting ready!!

Once I get there, I'll keep posting pics of the progress, crossmember, skid paltes and clearance issues.

I'd like to put a large skid plate, seperate from the crossmember. I may end up with 2, one in front one behind the crossmember.

BESRK
01-30-2008, 20:13
Good stuff..

Hurry up. Since I'm doing just about the same thing I want you to struggle thru it first so I don't have to :D

I have the 3/8" thick clocking ring from Greatlakes. I picked up a Speedi-Sleeve for the input shaft snout to make sure it seats in the tranny seal (T176). I hope the TC will clock up without hitting the tub. If it does, I suppose I could spin out some 1" aluminum body lift spacers on the lathe. My CJ5 has a prestine floor so I'd hate to hack it up.

HillBillE
01-30-2008, 23:46
I was going to mention the speedi sleeve, I also have the Great Lakes clocking ring, and the 3/8'' just pulled the input out of the seal area by less than 1/16th of an inch.

My ring has 3 clocking positions, as my 7 has a pristine body also (direct from TX, no rust!!) I don't care to cut the floor, so I may end up clocking only part way. Nice thing is, I'm making my own cross member and skid, so I can drop the tranny/Tcase a bit if need be for clearance.

Warmed up to -15 degrees F, and the wind speed is down to 5-10 mph, so the kids should have school tomorrow:D And I talked to Bob at Midwest Engines, my 258 will be ready tomorrow, so I should have some pics by Sunday!!

BESRK
01-31-2008, 21:14
I'm gonna make a new skid too.. Probably bend up some 1.75" DOM for the frame work and skin it with 3/16". Might even use a little UHMW Plastic like I have on my buggy.. stuff is slick as snot on the rocks.

I got my 300 painted black today. I may try to get it installed this weekend and start on the skid. My Edelbrock shorty headers came in (AMC 360) today too.. woohoo! Hope to fire the CJ5 up and have it moving under it's own power in the next couple weeks. I've got almost all the parts.. just need the time.
What's bad is.. I work in my fab shop.. with my Jeep sitting not more than 10ft from me all day... and I don't have time to work on it.

HillBillE
01-31-2008, 23:45
Time to rock and roll!! Got this back today!!!

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/hillbillecj7/cats009.jpg

Going to bolt the trans up tomorrow and get the motor mounted. Then I will start on the clocking and crossmember.

It has been so cold, the fuel oil gelled for the furnaces in the 2 shops. Spent 1/2 of today getting the furnace to fire!

At least tomorrow is supposed to be 12* above!:)

HillBillE
02-01-2008, 17:15
Figured I'd keep this here, rather than start another thread.

I purchased the clocking ring from Great Lakes Offroad. There's has 3 positions you can use.

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/hillbillecj7/CJ%20Rebuild%202%20Dec07/D300engine006.jpg

I was able to use the farthest holes, clocking the case flat. There is approximately 1'' clearance to the floorboard.

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/hillbillecj7/CJ%20Rebuild%202%20Dec07/D300engine010.jpg

I have a 1'' body lift, if I didn't, I would just drop the tranny/tcase down enough to clear, as I'm making my own crossmember.

Now the tranny mount is the lowest point beneath the Jeep

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/hillbillecj7/CJ%20Rebuild%202%20Dec07/D300engine011.jpg

There is ample room for the front driveshaft, no interference from the starter (258 6 cyl) except at full compression. For this I lowered the pinion snubber 1 1/4'' from stock. Since I have a 3'' spring lift I don't think the snubber would ever bottom out, but better safe than a bent driveshaft or broken starter/bell housing.

The only other clearnce issue is the speedometer cable. It is now very close to the catylitic converter. I'll probably end up making a heat shield to protect it.

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/hillbillecj7/CJ%20Rebuild%202%20Dec07/D300engine009.jpg

With my tranny (T4) there is enough room for the 'ear' that the stock shifter mounts to on the T-case. On some trannies, this inner ear will have to be trimmed off. If you are twinsticking the case it's not a problem, as you only need the outer ear to mount the sticks.

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/hillbillecj7/CJ%20Rebuild%202%20Dec07/D300engine014.jpg

HillBillE
02-01-2008, 17:50
Forgot to mention, along with the clocking ring, you may need a 'speedi-sleeve' , depending on your transmission. The clocking ring is 3/8'' thick, and pulls the input shaft out of the seal on the back of the tranny by about 1/16th''. A 'speedi-sleeve' will extend the seal surface of the input shaft on the T-case, making sure no tranny fluid leaks.
I'll post up the part # for the D300 tomorrow after I find it.
My T-case is only in for a 'test fit', So I will be pulling it down to install the speedi sleeve, and will post pics of it.

BESRK
02-01-2008, 21:14
You're a lifesaver... since I don't have a BL, I'll probably just go with the middle hole. I think that should rotate the TC down to about the same height as that tranny mount. Still pretty good clearance.

HillBillE
02-02-2008, 19:44
You should be good with using the other one, lookhow high my case is compared tothe bottom of the tranny now!

OK, Part # for the speedi sleeve is: 99193
Got the crossmember fabbed up today. I mounted the tranny solid to the crossember, and used bushings where the crossmember mounts to the frame rails.
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/hillbillecj7/CJ%20Rebuild%202%20Dec07/D300crossmember004.jpg
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/hillbillecj7/CJ%20Rebuild%202%20Dec07/D300crossmember009.jpg
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/hillbillecj7/CJ%20Rebuild%202%20Dec07/D300crossmember006.jpg
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/hillbillecj7/CJ%20Rebuild%202%20Dec07/D300crossmember007.jpg
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/hillbillecj7/CJ%20Rebuild%202%20Dec07/D300crossmember008.jpg
Detail of the bushing mounts:
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/hillbillecj7/CJ%20Rebuild%202%20Dec07/D300crossmember001.jpg
T-case is way up there now! I should be able to put the new skids right across the bottom of the frame rails, or just below them an inch.
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/hillbillecj7/CJ%20Rebuild%202%20Dec07/D300crossmember005.jpg

02tj
02-04-2008, 00:11
man!, thats looking good!

BESRK
02-04-2008, 22:28
Yeah.. got the 300 mocked up under the rig today.. I had to plasma off the inner shifter mounting ear because it was hitting the upper tranny bolt. I ended up mangling the Speedi-Sleeve during all the installing/cutting/reinstalling I did.

I think that middle hole works well.. TC is about even with bottom of tranny mount. I may redo the tranny mount to raise it up a bit. I won't quite be able to do a flat belly.. but it should work out well and be able to take some hard hits.

HillBillE
02-05-2008, 00:20
Yeah.. got the 300 mocked up under the rig today.. I had to plasma off the inner shifter mounting ear because it was hitting the upper tranny bolt. I ended up mangling the Speedi-Sleeve during all the installing/cutting/reinstalling I did.

I think that middle hole works well.. TC is about even with bottom of tranny mount. I may redo the tranny mount to raise it up a bit. I won't quite be able to do a flat belly.. but it should work out well and be able to take some hard hits.

Cool!! You're rolling along also! I left my speedi sleeve off until final fit up. One nice thing about being clocked level, I was able to use a reguar floor jack, and a piece of plywood, to lift the case into position. Then it slid right in.

I'm buttoning up the engine install and dash now, I'm going to test drive it before I do the skids. I want to make sure the crossmember will hold up.

I'll post up the skids I come up with when I put them on. Until then, good luck and hope this helps!! HB

BESRK
02-13-2008, 08:40
I'm catching up.. :D

I got my tranny skid done. I ended up doing the frame mounts out of angle iron and made a little "cradle" in the center to mount the tranny using YJ spring bushings. It was fun trying to get all the bends right so they'd be the proper height below the frame...etc.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/543000-543999/543576_755_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/543000-543999/543576_756_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/543000-543999/543576_757_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/543000-543999/543576_762_full.jpg

HMRRSQ
02-13-2008, 09:00
I'm catching up.. :D

I got my tranny skid done. I ended up doing the frame mounts out of angle iron and made a little "cradle" in the center to mount the tranny using YJ spring bushings. It was fun trying to get all the bends right so they'd be the proper height below the frame...etc.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/543000-543999/543576_755_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/543000-543999/543576_756_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/543000-543999/543576_757_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/543000-543999/543576_762_full.jpg

I'm blown away. SWEET!!!!!

miljeep
02-13-2008, 09:01
That looks really nice.

Truck
02-13-2008, 10:26
yes very nice...

Truck

miljeep
02-13-2008, 11:13
a new line for ground pounder fab maybe?? Looks sweet.

HillBillE
02-13-2008, 15:17
I like it!! Hey BESRK, what diameter tube did you use? My buddy built a tubing bender, but right now he only has 1.75 dies, though he's thinking of getting a smaller set. Thats what I wanted to do, but made due with what I had.

BESRK
02-13-2008, 21:30
No new line of stuff with skids.. that was too much work to make any money off of it.

I only have a 1.75"x5.5" Die for my bender. I will eventually buy a 1.5" die, 1.25" die, 1" die and a 3/4" square tube die (for racks). However, right now I'm saving every penny so I can buy a 4'x8' CNC plasma cutting table..

HillBillE
02-13-2008, 23:07
No new line of stuff with skids.. that was too much work to make any money off of it.

I only have a 1.75"x5.5" Die for my bender. I will eventually buy a 1.5" die, 1.25" die, 1" die and a 3/4" square tube die (for racks). However, right now I'm saving every penny so I can buy a 4'x8' CNC plasma cutting table..

So thats 1.75 wall? Sweet! Seeing as I just bought 120' of it! I don't think I'll need that much for my cage!:D

BESRK
02-13-2008, 23:37
1.75"x.120" wall skinned with 3/16" plate.. works well for a skid.. plenty strong. I'm probably going to order some 1/2" thick UHMW plastic to skin it and make it slippery.. I use that stuff on my buggy and love it on the rocks.

HillBillE
02-14-2008, 00:19
Where can I order the UHMW plastic? Thats the stuff that just slides off rocks right?

BESRK
02-14-2008, 08:39
I just get it from Mcmaster Carr.. http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/PSearch2.asp?reqTyp=parametric&act=psearch&FAM=plastics&FT_138=117610&FT_130=546&FT_101=2680&FT_1206=52687&FT_1118=43663&session=plastics;138=117610;130=546;101=2680;1206=52687;1118=43663&sesnextrep=547199060419954&ScreenWidth=1024&McMMainWidth=812

HillBillE
02-14-2008, 11:34
Thanks! Not priced to bad either.

BESRK
02-14-2008, 21:42
Naw.. not too bad. I run that stuff under my buggy and love it. You have to make sure you do dropoffs straight though.. if the rig is off to one side, it'll slide to that side pretty fast. My buggy gains speed on dropoffs when it slides on the skid.. :D

02tj
02-15-2008, 05:55
I'm catching up.. :D

I got my tranny skid done. I ended up doing the frame mounts out of angle iron and made a little "cradle" in the center to mount the tranny using YJ spring bushings. It was fun trying to get all the bends right so they'd be the proper height below the frame...etc.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/543000-543999/543576_755_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/543000-543999/543576_756_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/543000-543999/543576_757_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/543000-543999/543576_762_full.jpg
This is exactly why all my welding projects go to you Eddie! Im savin for my cage as we speak!!!!!

HillBillE
02-15-2008, 09:44
Definatley nice work!!

BESRK
02-15-2008, 20:45
Thanks guys! Helps that I have a shop full of steel and the time to play with it all day if I want.. :D

84jeepjohn
05-16-2008, 11:39
so did both of ya'll HAVE to have the speedi-sleeve? or did ya'll just get them "just in case"? I'm REALLY thinking about getting this clocking ring for my D300 BEFORE I go and order my driveshaft (that would be the smart thing to do). But I'm thinking of getting the sleeve too cause this IS my DD ;)

any problem's with the install of the clocking ring? if I'm just doing ONLY that, about how long would you think it will take?

USMCHarleyJeepGuy
05-16-2008, 11:51
That thing came out beautiful!

84jeepjohn
06-03-2008, 12:59
I'm about to clock my D300 and I was just wondering about how much oil are ya'll running in them when you have it clocked up flat to almost flat? I'll get around to doing a site tube (when I actualy "rip into the case" for a 4 to 1), but for now I just want to get it up and out of the way... and measure for my front DS!!!! LOL I hate going 4 wheeling with only 2 wheels doing ANY WORK

and by the way NICE crossmembers to both of you I'm gonna need to print out pics when I go up to the hobby shop LMAO ("can ya'll help me build...THIS?")

cj5 buggy
09-09-2008, 13:25
i'm thinking of "right clicking save" that cross member myself. NICE work!!!