Hubs

[ArmyJeepster]

I've been thinking for a while now about switching axles, I decided on the Dynatrac Pro 44, and don't know if I should get manual hubs, or automatic hubs, let me know what you think.

[WILLTAKE]

After a recent experience with a friends TJ I strongly lead toward automatic hubs. He had a custom front end with Warn locking hubs. Apparently any and every time you do a water crosssing you are supposed to break the hub down and regrease it. He only found this out while driving down the road and having his front passenger side wheel fall off.

[JavaTee]

With any water crossing you should always check your diff fluids & regrease your wheel bearings, and if you went deeper then keep on checking fluids. The problem wasn't the Warn locking hubs, it was the after maintenance.

On to the question. I recommend locking hubs, you can pick from Warn, Mile Marker, Superwinch, AVM. The reason for locking hubs over autos (for me is) if using auto hubs the front axle is always spinning, the driveshaft is always spinning, which is more drag on the drivetrain equals lower fuel mileage, more maintenance on the front end, etc. You definintely do not want an auto hub if you are installing a locker in the front due to it's always locked, except when going around corners, then it will pop/rachet until you finish the corner.

The 'down side' of manually locking the hubs is if it's cold/wet you will not be smiling when you have to get out to lock in from your nice warm/dry rig. If you are going to air down your rig anyway, then what's a turn of the hub while you're there.

Always remember it's the maintenance that helps you know your rig, and find potential problems, along with preventing others.
Later, T.J.

[korisu56]

With any water crossing you should always check your diff fluids & regrease your wheel bearings, and if you went deeper then keep on checking fluids. The problem wasn't the Warn locking hubs, it was the after maintenance.

On to the question. I recommend locking hubs, you can pick from Warn, Mile Marker, Superwinch, AVM. The reason for locking hubs over autos (for me is) if using auto hubs the front axle is always spinning, the driveshaft is always spinning, which is more drag on the drivetrain equals lower fuel mileage, more maintenance on the front end, etc. You definintely do not want an auto hub if you are installing a locker in the front due to it's always locked, except when going around corners, then it will pop/rachet until you finish the corner.

The 'down side' of manually locking the hubs is if it's cold/wet you will not be smiling when you have to get out to lock in from your nice warm/dry rig. If you are going to air down your rig anyway, then what's a turn of the hub while you're there.

Always remember it's the maintenance that helps you know your rig, and find potential problems, along with preventing others.
Later, T.J.

x a million. Hence my problems today...phooey.

[Jerry Bransford]

Properly greased, taking a greased manual hub'd vehicle through the water won't hurt it in the least. Come on guys, grease is not water soluable.

A few facts here... the TJ doesn't have "automatic hubs"... it doesn't have anything other than a standard unit-bearing hub that is always turning the ring & pinion gear inside the front axle.

Manual hubs have a number of benefits which is why I converted my TJ to run with manual (Warn) hubs. None of which include better mileage, reduced wear, etc.. The biggest reason is with manual hubs, you can unlock one or both hubs so you can still drive home if you break an inner axleshaft, outer stub, u-joint, ring gear or pinion gear. If you break, for example, the passenger-side axle shaft or u-joint, all you need to do to continue driving is to unlock the passenger-side hub.

Plus if you have an automatic locker up front but are on a tight-twisty trail where the front locker isn't really needed, you can unlock the hubs and run in what is in effect, 2Lo... 4Lo but without the front axle being engaged which takes the front locker out of the equation for much better/easier steering on tight twisty trails... which also helps your power steering system to run cooler because it's not working as hard.

There are even more benefits to a manual locking hub such as it being rebuildable by merely installing a new set of bearings instead of having to replace the entire unit-bearing hub.

I'm extremely happy that I installed Warn's manual hubs on my TJ's front axle, they have been excellent, continue to provide a lot of benefits, and have never given me a problem. :)

[JavaTee]

Properly greased, taking a greased manual hub'd vehicle through the water won't hurt it in the least. Come on guys, grease is not water soluable. :)

I guess I need to clarify 'water crossings'. I'm typing about good running 1' to 2' of creek/river. There is a multitude of things that can go wrong, and one is a leaking seal/hub gasket. You are correct Jerry about grease vs water, but Murphy's Law will catch up on us. We do a water crossing, forget about any kind of wheel preventative maintenance, and then a wheel bearing locks up. Me personally, I'm doing the maintenance so I'm not a trail hazard down the road. Grease is not water soluable, but with water comes separation/deterioration/breakdown of the grease to become ineffective for lubrication ;).
Later, T.J.

[rockready]

difinitly agree to get the munual hubs. but im waiting to buy a dana 44 until i get hubs. my dana 30 will not be lasting to much longer.

[USMCHarleyJeepGuy]

Getting some great feedback gentlemen...excellent thread!

[GP4Play]

Have to agree with both,Java and Jerry.With a Jeep(or any 4x4)maint. should always be 1'st.The benny's of locking hubs always been the reason I stayed with them with all 4x4's I've owned.Just remember to lock,em before you get into the mud or puddle.:D:beer: