What's Needed For A Tune-Up

[Military Jeeper]

I'd like to do a tune-up on the CJ (304 V8) and I need to know what components make up a tune-up?

I've recently changed the following:

Oil
Air Filter (K&N 14" X-Stream)

What else needs done, I'm guessing the following:

Wires (They look new.....having said that I bought the Jeep 3 yrs ago)
Plugs (What plugs do you recommend, what gapping as well)
Distributor

Is there anything else I'm missing? Also, what brand do you recommend.....or what upgrades would you recommend if replacing these parts?

[Truck]

typical tune up is plugs/distributer cap/rotor (points if you have them). I personally like Bosch platinum plugs. As long as wire are good leave them but if there is any question get new ones. If you really want to upgrade get a HEI or TFI distributer set up. That will give your engine more spark. It will start better and burn fuel better. Plenty of write ups out there on HEI or TFI conversions out there. There is a guy on ebay that sells everything as a kit with some pretty good support that is a reasonable price.

Truck

[Military Jeeper]

Thanks for the pointers......

[Junk Yard Genius]

I have a different view of 'Spring Tune Up'...

Usually in the Fall, I drain and replace fluids in my Trans, Transfer, and differentials, so I don't leave water on my gears all winter...
One less headache in the spring.

If you didn't do the same, it's probably a good idea to check your diffs, trans, transfer, ect.

Also a good time to check wheel bearings/brakes so you don't start the season with bad grease or wheel bearings/brakes.

Then I move to the engine.
Time to service the battery and battery cables.
Nothing sucks more than to get stranded by one of those cheap discount store cables or lead battery terminals!

Once the battery is serviced, fully charged and the cables are doing what they are supposed to,
I check the charging system.
Noting like getting the mud-dobbers out of the alternator before they cause problems!

Radiator/Anti-Freeze/Coolant is next.
Most people don't realize that most anti-freeze/coolant turns acidic after about two or three years, and starts to do damage instead of protect!

Then it's an oil and filter change.
Mostly because an engine sitting all winter will collect water from the atmosphere, through heating and cooling condensation,
And,
Partly because I run a thicker oil in the summer, and this is a good time to make the switch.

If you used a fuel stabilizer in the fall, and remembered to fill up the tank completely so condensation couldn't collect in the empty air spaces, then you are ready to change the fuel filter, and test the fuel pump for flow and leaks...

If that goes well, then hook up the fuel line to the carb, and use a small squirt bottle to fill the carb float bowl so you don't have to crank on the engine a bunch to pump fuel into the carb, and start the engine, warm it up...

If all that goes well, Choke works fine, and it runs OK, the thermostat opens when it's supposed to, ect.
Then shut it down and let it cool down...

This is a good time to let the extra pressure out of the tires...
An extra 10 or 15 pounds of pressure in each tire will help fight flat spotting when it's setting, but you don't want to drive with that extra pressure.

Also a good time to check lights, plates, registration, fire extingusher, make sure the first aid kit makes it back in the jeep, check for emergency tools, like flash light and tire tools, jack handle, ect...

When the engine cools down, check the plugs, plug wires, distributor cap terminals, rotor terminal, dielectric grease the boots on both ends, make sure the cap has a bead of grease where it mates to the housing, and if you are a perfectionist, put a dab of dielectric grease on the rotor nose, ect.

Once that is done, check/set the timing and curb idle with the engine running.

I know there is a dozen little things like the PCV and vacuum hoses but this post is getting too long the way it is...