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Thread: Jeep Fluids

  1. #1
    Administrator korisu56's Avatar
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    Default Jeep Fluids

    I want to know what the best fluids are to use in the:

    -Transmission:
    AX15-
    AX5-
    30rh
    32rh
    42rle- MOPAR AT4
    NV1500-
    NV3550
    NSG370


    -Differentials:
    Dana 30
    Dana 35
    Dana 44(f)
    Dana 44
    Dana 609(f)
    Dana 60
    Ford 8.8
    Ford 9"(f)
    Ford 9"
    Chevy 14-Bolt

    -Engine Oil:
    I6- 10W-30
    I4
    258

    -Transfer Case:
    NV231- MOPAR AT4
    NV241-
    AtlasII-
    Atlas4sp-


    If we get a good consensus, I'll sticky. I don't know so I want to know what people are running, and why.
    Last edited by korisu56; 04-16-2008 at 13:37.

  2. #2
    Bobble Head Jeeper trailsnail's Avatar
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    I'm really interested in this. I have an I-6 and use 10W-30 in the summer and 5W-30 in the winter with good luck. Prefer them in a synthetic flavor. As far as the other fluids go, i'm clueless.
    Last edited by trailsnail; 04-16-2008 at 02:06.

  3. #3
    College Hobo Rabies99's Avatar
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    My 42RLE seems to be really picky so it only gets MOPAR ATF+4 (walmart sells it pretty cheap)

    Since I have enough of that lying around, that is what my NV231 gets too.

    My I-6 gets 10W-30 all year long as we are cursed with beautiful winters.

    I haven't noticed any major difference in any different 80W-90 that my axles eat after trying a few brands... so I by the "name" brand that strikes my fancy.
    I AM SECRET SQUIRREL!

  4. #4
    Administrator miljeep's Avatar
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    Just picked up 6 quarts of regular oil the other night, then my buddy at work said to go synthetic. Not sure if I should go synthetic or not, but if I did, would I have to run some synthetic through first to try to flush out as much of the old stuff (regular oil) as possible before filling up? Just curious I guess since I have been told on numerous occasions not to mix the two.

  5. #5
    Bobble Head Jeeper trailsnail's Avatar
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    I personally have never had any ill effects from draining dino oil, having a beer after it stops flowing letting it drip into a drip pan, and then filling with synthetic. But that is just me.

  6. #6
    Buy My Bike! 05warrior's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by miljeep View Post
    Just picked up 6 quarts of regular oil the other night, then my buddy at work said to go synthetic. Not sure if I should go synthetic or not, but if I did, would I have to run some synthetic through first to try to flush out as much of the old stuff (regular oil) as possible before filling up? Just curious I guess since I have been told on numerous occasions not to mix the two.
    I think your fine as long as you drain all the old oil then add the synthetic. Just don't add a quart of synthetic to plaino oil.

  7. #7
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    Default

    I copied this off rubicon owners forum everything but the axles and tcase will be the same for none rubi's


    Rubicon Fluid Recommendations and (capacities), from the Factory Service Manual. Updated 2/29/08.

    Front Differential – API GL5, SAE 75W-140 Synthetic Gear Lubricant (40 ounces)
    Rear Differential – API GL5, SAE 75W-140 Synthetic Gear Lubricant (60 ounces)

    *** The Rubicon TRU-LOK LSD does not require the use of a Friction Modifier, but it is included in most Synthetic Gear Lubricants, but not all*** (It is fine to add it if you feel the need to).

    Automatic Transmission – ATF+4 (service fill, 8 pints) - ATF+4 is a synthetic-based ATF. Four companies are currently approved ATF+4 blenders: Petro-Canada, Shell, Valvoline and ExxonMobil, it is available from the dealer as well.

    Manual Transmission – Mopar Manual Transmission Lubricant (4.2 pints)
    DoctorD wrote:
    For manual transmissions
    The following products are MS-9224 compliant:
    • Chrysler synchomesh fluid #4874464
    • Penzoil Synchromesh Fluid #18106
    • Quakerstate Synchromesh Fluid #59634
    • GM synchromesh fluid #12345349
    • GM synchromesh fluid 12345577
    • Havoline MTX fluid #1874




    Transfer Case (NV241) – ATF+4 (4.2 pints)

    Engine – Outside Air Temperature above 0 F = SAE 10W-30 (Preferred)
    Outside Air Temperature below 32 F = SAE 5W-30
    GF-3 API Certified For Gasoline Engines
    (6 quarts with new filter)

    Cooling System – Mopar Antifreeze/Coolant HOAT {Hybrid Organic Additive Technology}
    Zerex G 05 (14.5 quarts)
    See notes below

    NOTES:

    Antifreeze/Coolant, Mopar Antifreeze, this coolant is a 5 year/100,000 mile product, it has a classification of “Glysantin G 05”, and is made by ZEREX. Ford / Chrysler Zerex comes in a GOLD colored jug and says ZEREX G-05. This product has been used by Mercedes Benz since the 1980’s and is widely available in Europe.
    GM DexCool is not recommended (this is sold at GM dealerships only).
    Prestone and others that indicate "G 05" can be safely used, it is a HOAT formula, and not the same as GM DexCool, but it is DexCool compatable.

    Mopar Synthetic Motor Oil is manufactured and is the same as Mobile 1 Synthetic Motor Oil

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