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Thread: Brake problem

  1. #1
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    Default Brake problem

    I have a problem with my brakes on my 97 ZJ. On Sun I was towing a car dolly from DC and noticed my lft front brake was dragging. By the time I got home it was glowing red and smoking.

    On Mon I replace the Hub, Rotor, Pads, Caliper, and brake flex hose. I replaced all these parts on both side to ensure no future problems.

    While test driving I notice that when I hit the brakes the right front would try to lock up and could feel pulsating in the peddle. While hitting the brakes the steering wheel would pull to right.

    To avoid the pulsating and such I remove the ABS fuse and Jeep stops great. No pulsating or pull on steering wheel. The right front doesn't lock as before.

    Here is the Question. Will the ABS Wheel Sensor cause all of my problem due to damage from heat. If so, should I replace both wheel sensor just b/c.

    Any help would be great, I plan to tow a trailer to Fl in December and would rather not break down.

  2. #2
    See Ya There!! Shadow's Avatar
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    I can give three possibles. The first thing would be air in the line, bleed the lines again, test and repeat. I know this sounds like I'm being a smart as but I have had similar problems. Another possibility would be contaminated fluids ( hence the "repeat"). There is a possibility that you have gotten air into the ABS module. My ZJ ABS Module is a real PITA!! So I just removed it when I did the WJ knuckle and brake conversion.
    2003 Rubi with 6" lift rolling 37's w/ beadlocks, armor for effect. Constant state of change, its a jeep thing!!

    SOLD - 5.9 Grand with TNT Long Arms, KM2's, HP30 w/ARB & WJ Brake Conv., Rear 44HD Trussed & Skidded, 231 w/SYE, TW Drive Shafts & Custom Sliders

    RIP: 2004 Rubi: 3" lift on 33's

  3. #3
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    wouldn't removing the ABS fuse and therefor not letting ABS activate show an ABS problem. the jeep stops fine, peddle feels good and all. The fluid still goes through the ABS box. I will bleed brakes agin to ensure there is no air. Should I have the Jeep running while bleeding. I have heard different thing about having it on but what works best with Jeeps.

  4. #4
    See Ya There!! Shadow's Avatar
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    It will de-activate the electrical side only. As you have stated Fluid still flows through the unit. What happen to mine was air got into it. After bleeding time and time again with out results. I finally took it to the stealership and had it bleed which fixed everything. A couple of weeks later I was talking with some friends, one works as a ASE mechanic. I was informed that the ABS has a separate bleed procedure. That is when I decided to eliminate the extra crap. I did notice a firmer brake with out the ABS.

    Everybody has a different way to bleed brakes. I perfer the old school way. It requires two people, one pushing the peddle and one getting dirty. I start with out it running and the fill cap off. Once I have the brakes fairly firm and no air being pushed out. I then top off brake fluid and install the cap and start the vehicle and bleed again. The brakes should feel really firm at this point. I know this sounds like a long procedure but your having brake problems so take your time and double, triple check everything. I have installed speed bleeds for a field expedient method.
    Last edited by Shadow; 09-29-2009 at 12:13.
    2003 Rubi with 6" lift rolling 37's w/ beadlocks, armor for effect. Constant state of change, its a jeep thing!!

    SOLD - 5.9 Grand with TNT Long Arms, KM2's, HP30 w/ARB & WJ Brake Conv., Rear 44HD Trussed & Skidded, 231 w/SYE, TW Drive Shafts & Custom Sliders

    RIP: 2004 Rubi: 3" lift on 33's

  5. #5
    darwinism at its best irish1371's Avatar
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    well the pulsing could be a warped rotor also. You may have multiple problems to solve to get the whole can of worms done with
    "Some people wonder their whole lives if they will ever make a difference. Marines don't have that problem." Pres. Ronald Reagan
    Army vs Marines = http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2M7ckkxQLU

  6. #6
    See Ya There!! Shadow's Avatar
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    as a point of information: If you buy thr large bottles of brake fluid you may be waiting you money. Brake fluid will absorb water. This will boil in the lines and produce air. I get rid of any bottles of brake fluid that have been opened for more that three mo. I do keep a couple of small unopened bottles in the jeep for the trail. The brake fluid in the lines needs to be clear not cloudy or yellowish.
    2003 Rubi with 6" lift rolling 37's w/ beadlocks, armor for effect. Constant state of change, its a jeep thing!!

    SOLD - 5.9 Grand with TNT Long Arms, KM2's, HP30 w/ARB & WJ Brake Conv., Rear 44HD Trussed & Skidded, 231 w/SYE, TW Drive Shafts & Custom Sliders

    RIP: 2004 Rubi: 3" lift on 33's

  7. #7
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    I will bleed the hell out of the brakes on thur and see what happens. the rotors are new as is the rest of the parts, the only thing I can think is air and/or ABS sensor. Of course I am going to bleed the brakes first b/c it is cheaper then just buying parts.

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