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Thread: Off Road Lights

  1. #1
    Junior Member Don's Avatar
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    Default Off Road Lights

    What's the best way to wire Off Road Lights, do I need anything besides a switch and wire?

  2. #2
    Fix it until it's broke CrazyHorse6's Avatar
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    Most kits will come with a relay as well - so be sure to use it or the system won't utilize the voltage properly. Lights are a piece of cake. Also ensure you use an inline fuse that can handle the load. As for the wiring, be sure you use 12g or heavier - you don't want to light of a wire or it won't handle the load. Consider where you want the 12v power source to come from - straight from the battery or from another source, tied to the ignition or 12v "always on" - those kinds of things. Some kits also come with a connector so you can wire into your high beams, so when they come on, so do your off road lights. I run mine separate though. Don't overload a 12v source that is already being asked for too much, such as to a radio, amp, or heater. If you choose to run it from the battery, I suggest running the wire inside plastic conduit that can be found at any auto store, lowes, or even radio shack. In the same section of these stores (electrical) you will also find 1"x1" adhesive squares which you can zip tie the wire inside the conduit to for a really clean install. That way you don't have to worry about loose wires catching on anything. To start, try running the wiring open, just lying on the jeep first to ensure everything works, and then when you're sure it works, tie everything in nice and clean. You'll want a package of wire couplers, electrical tape, spade connectors, and a wire stripper to strip and crimp the connectors. So to recap, inline fuse, stripper/crimpers, tape, wire connectors/couplers, 12g wire, relay, switch, zip ties, and the lights. Also, when you set up the ground, be sure you can get to bare metal - grounds don't work well over paint. good luck.

    The below diagram should get you started. Also, don't forget the basics - disconnect the battery before you try anything!
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    Last edited by CrazyHorse6; 12-19-2009 at 23:14.
    GarryOwen!
    CJ7, 258, Dana 20 T-case, Dana 30 & AMC 20, TFI Ignition upgrade, headers, MC 2100 carb, YJ tub mod w/Family Style roll bar...

  3. #3
    Still Growing Too! Big Green's Avatar
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    ^^^^ Good job.

  4. #4
    Senior Member HillBillE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Green View Post
    ^^^^ Good job.
    X2!
    You can use lighter wire between the switch and relay (like the diagram shows-16ga) Becuase there's not the draw as the lights have.

    Using a relay is not only safer, it will make the lights as bright as they can be.


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  5. #5
    Fix it until it's broke CrazyHorse6's Avatar
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    Thanks guys. All of it learned by figuring out "what not to do" on past projects!
    GarryOwen!
    CJ7, 258, Dana 20 T-case, Dana 30 & AMC 20, TFI Ignition upgrade, headers, MC 2100 carb, YJ tub mod w/Family Style roll bar...

  6. #6
    Got Beer airforce26yrs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Green View Post
    ^^^^ Good job.
    X3 really good write up.
    I'm Mike, make sure you spell it right, because I do not want to get the wrong A$$hole in trouble.

    If you do not have time to do it right the first time, how do you have time do do it over?

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    I have a question along these lines.

    The stock fogs were long gone when I got my YJ, but all the wiring remains. It's my understanding that the original lights were 55 watt.

    If I put 100 watt lights on, should I be looking at changing anything in the system?

  8. #8
    Color Blind Trail Guide TJ 4 the Boxers's Avatar
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    I would upgrade the wiring, gauge, and add/replace a relay,
    '01 TJ 4 Banger--2" BB w/OME, 1.25 BL, 1" MML, 33" Trxxus, Disco's and Skids.

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  9. #9
    Junior Member CJ Chet's Avatar
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    You can use the old wiring to energize the new relay.
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