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Thread: CJ7 tire carrier build

  1. #1
    Fix it until it's broke CrazyHorse6's Avatar
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    Default CJ7 tire carrier build

    As the title says, I finally started this build. I've been putting thoughts and ideas together for about 6 months now, got some plans down on paper, and finally went and bought the supplies last weekend. My camera is missing its battery at the moment, so unfortunately I don't have any pics of the actual one I built, but attached are my plans and a couple commercial photos of what I wanted to do with mine.

    The frame is made of 2"x2" square steel and I got the spindle kit from AtoZ Fabrication. I also picked up a receiver tube from Northern tools and Equipment so that I could assemble an adjuster - that way if I go with larger tires in the future, I can adjust the tire carrier. Basically, I have the lug plate mounted on a 2"x2" section which can slide inside the receiver tube. It has holes drilled in the side to allow for adjustment. Got the idea from Besrk on Jeepforum. Much of my carrier is like his with the exception of where I welded in the 45 degree sides. He welds his to the vertical upright while I welded mine to the receiver tube. I'm also using my existing bumper as the foundation.

    I'm still working out the latch mechanism. I don't care for the AtoZ fabrication latch that I already have as I think it will be prone to vibrate and bang around. Additionally, I want to design a latch system which can be operated one-handed. I'll tackle that one next week.

    I did all the cutting, welding and most of the grinding today. I'll finish the rest of the grinding maybe tomorrow. Primer and then paint next weekend, then install the spindle. Last I'll need to weld the carrier frame to the spindle and that should be about it.

    The 2"x2" tube should allow for plenty of mods and accessories to be added later, such as the jerry can/water can rack and some cargo racks. So far all the measurements have worked out. The 45 degree angles required some grinding in order to get them to mount up flush, but other than that, I think all the numbers are good.

    I'll post some pics when I get my camera up and running.

    Questions or comments? Suggestions for improvements?
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    Last edited by CrazyHorse6; 02-14-2010 at 23:35.
    GarryOwen!
    CJ7, 258, Dana 20 T-case, Dana 30 & AMC 20, TFI Ignition upgrade, headers, MC 2100 carb, YJ tub mod w/Family Style roll bar...

  2. #2
    Fix it until it's broke CrazyHorse6's Avatar
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    Forgot about my phone. Not the best pic.....
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    GarryOwen!
    CJ7, 258, Dana 20 T-case, Dana 30 & AMC 20, TFI Ignition upgrade, headers, MC 2100 carb, YJ tub mod w/Family Style roll bar...

  3. #3
    Administrator korisu56's Avatar
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    Do you plan on tying it in with the frame? The rear crossmember on CJ's is notoriously weak if I remember correctly.

  4. #4
    Fix it until it's broke CrazyHorse6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by korisu56 View Post
    Do you plan on tying it in with the frame? The rear crossmember on CJ's is notoriously weak if I remember correctly.
    Great point. I removed all rot during my resto a few years back. All the metal framework for the bumper and cross member is good to go so at this point I don't think I will tie it into the frame. I don't plan on getting too crazy with the tire carrier as far as weight is concerned, but it should at least be able to support me (210 lbs) hanging on it. Additionally when its closed, I want the latch system to support the weight of the carrier vs it being supported by the spindle. The spindle will obviously be the weakest point so I'm doing a lot of reinforcing on the underside of the bumper. Instead of just welding the spindle to the bumper, I'm welding it to the support brace of the bumper itself. I'm sure it has a name but I don't have a clue what it's called - but its at least 1/4" thick and runs vertically, so there is plenty of surface area to weld the spindle to.
    Last edited by CrazyHorse6; 02-14-2010 at 23:54.
    GarryOwen!
    CJ7, 258, Dana 20 T-case, Dana 30 & AMC 20, TFI Ignition upgrade, headers, MC 2100 carb, YJ tub mod w/Family Style roll bar...

  5. #5
    Administrator korisu56's Avatar
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    I was thinking more of the added force when you pull someone out of something using a fixture on your rear bumper. Didn't know if you were going to add a shackle mount or hitch receiver.

    On my TJ my rear crossmember ripped right off, and my buddy's 7 was shit for pulling on. You can tie it into the frame just by having it bolt to the underside of the main frame

  6. #6
    Fix it until it's broke CrazyHorse6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by korisu56 View Post
    I was thinking more of the added force when you pull someone out of something using a fixture on your rear bumper. Didn't know if you were going to add a shackle mount or hitch receiver.

    On my TJ my rear crossmember ripped right off, and my buddy's 7 was shit for pulling on. You can tie it into the frame just by having it bolt to the underside of the main frame
    Ahh, I see what you're talking about. I actually already have shackles mounted as well as a hitch receiver so I won't need the carrier for anything heavy duty. Fortunately I'm keeping everything about my current bumper - cuts down on the work I have to do as well.
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    GarryOwen!
    CJ7, 258, Dana 20 T-case, Dana 30 & AMC 20, TFI Ignition upgrade, headers, MC 2100 carb, YJ tub mod w/Family Style roll bar...

  7. #7
    Senior Member deckster's Avatar
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    Good luck with the build
    Go Navy!!

  8. #8
    Fix it until it's broke CrazyHorse6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by deckster View Post
    Good luck with the build
    Thanks, I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. I still need to figure out how I want the latch to work and then primer and paint it, and it should be all done.
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    GarryOwen!
    CJ7, 258, Dana 20 T-case, Dana 30 & AMC 20, TFI Ignition upgrade, headers, MC 2100 carb, YJ tub mod w/Family Style roll bar...

  9. #9
    Senior Member HillBillE's Avatar
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    Looks great! I'm trying to remember the company I got my latch from.

    It's a stainless steel 'cam over' latch. Best part, it's a 90* latch, so when locked, the handle runs parralel with the carrier/bumper, and isn't sticking striaght out.


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  10. #10
    Fix it until it's broke CrazyHorse6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillBillE View Post
    Looks great! I'm trying to remember the company I got my latch from.

    It's a stainless steel 'cam over' latch. Best part, it's a 90* latch, so when locked, the handle runs parralel with the carrier/bumper, and isn't sticking striaght out.
    That sounds like the ticket. I'm not a fan of the AtoZ fabrication latch the kit came with. If you happen to remember where you got the latch would you mind letting me know?
    Thanks!
    GarryOwen!
    CJ7, 258, Dana 20 T-case, Dana 30 & AMC 20, TFI Ignition upgrade, headers, MC 2100 carb, YJ tub mod w/Family Style roll bar...

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