D44 axle upgrade for my CJ7

[HillBillE]

Just a quick do-dad on what I did to the Scout II D44 before sticking it under my CJ7.

Stripped it down and cleaned it well, along with inside the tube, then primered it.

I cleaned the tubes with a rag, bolted to a long piece of threaded rod, dipped in parts cleaner soultion. I then chucked the rod into a drill, and ran it in and out of the tubes.



I don't have those fancy seal/bearing race seaters, so I used this trick.

A short piece of threaded rod, nuts, washers, the old bearing, and a plate with a hole in the end.



Assemble them, with the old bearing in the new race. Then tighten the nuts down. It pulls the new race into place. Swap it around, and repeat for other race. (note: On Dana axles, you need to have the pinion heigth shims and oil baffle figured/installed before pressing in inner race)

[HillBillE]

While doing this, I had the new ring gear warming up on top of the furnace. A hot parts washer or a stove works also. It only needs to be around 160* F to slide onto the carrier nicely.



I then removed the pin holding the cross shaft:



And pulled the side gears and spiders:


The long blunted nail on the left, works great for the roll pin, as my punch was to short to finish.

I then installed the Aussie Locker per thier instructions, very easy and straight forward:


After assembling the locker, I installed the ring gear, and started checking the backlash. (already had the pinion heigth done)



Then I checked the run out. Hard to do, as there is not a lot of flat surface to work with. The dial indicator has to be set just right.



Getting the pinion heigth and backlash set, means pulling the carrier out a few times. Even with proper preload, a coupls of prybars work for pulling the carrier out.



After getting the diff set up, I welded on new spring perches:



Installed the inner axle seals. A socket just smaller than the OD of the seal, made a great 'seal driver':



Pressed the new axle bearings and retainers on:

[HillBillE]

Installed the axle shafts, and new calipers:



It's now under the CJ, and I have about 100 miles on it.

I really like the stopping power of 4 wheel disc brakes!

Although, since they were on the axle when I bought it, it took a while to figure out what the calipers and rotors were from.

(calipers= '80 Chev 1500 4x2 front, and the rotors= '80's style F150 4x4 front)

Still not sure what the hoses are from But I did find new ones, and have the part# now.

[Truck]

Nice work

Truck

[TheRenegade]

DITTO

I'm gonna earmark this thread....

[HillBillE]

Nice work

Truck

DITTO

I'm gonna earmark this thread....

Thanks! I didn't get into a lot of detail on the set up, becuase it's a bit involved.

I used the "Complete Rebuilders Guide for the CJ" by Moses Ludel, for the axle rebuild info. Very good book to have if you like to tear into the tranny, T-case and axles.

The Aussie locker comes with very clear instructions, and there are a few good videos on the web of the install. They are pretty straight forward and easy installs.

[Fred]

I really want to do rear disks but can't afford it

[HillBillE]

I really want to do rear disks but can't afford it

On which rig Fred?

The ZJ D35 rear discs, fit on the Chryco 8.25 XJ axle, and on the D44 with the 5 on 4.5 lug pattern, with just a little fab work!

I just picked up a complete disc brake set up from the local U-pull for $50!

Here's a write up on the 8.25: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/z...-truth-607435/

I wouldn't do one the way the PO did on this D44

The rotors are behind the axle flange, held on with the pressed in wheel studs.

In order to change a rotor, you need to pull the axle, and cut off the bearing keeper and bearing-the rotor is in the way of pulling the bearing, so you have to cut it off.

I didn't have the funds or time to mess with trying something different, so I'm using it as is for now. It has the 5 on 5.5 lug pattern, or I would have used the D35 disc set up on it.

I helped a guy in my club do the ZJ disc to his XJ 8.25, it's very easy to do, and then you get a good parking brake

[JavaTee]

Randy,

Here's a little something I did to upfit my D44, I added grease fittings to the outer bearing area. I installed two, so when checking/greasing you can remove one to 'releave' pressure so you don't blowout your axle seal.



Later, T.J.

[HillBillE]

Thanks TJ! I actually thought about this, of course, it was after I had one side greased up and back together

I did add the grease zerks on my front hubs! And they work great!

Where there is grease, there cannot be water. And there is no way you can hand pack the axle bearings with enough grease to avoid air pockets.

On the front, I just remove the lock out, so I can see the grease coming out and not blow the seal.

Jeep actually had the dual zerks on there axles years ago. But quit doing it, becuase mechanics would hit both zerks with the grease gun, instead of removing one to relieve pressure. Then of course, the seals would get boggered up.


Next time the rear's apart, I plan on doing this!