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Thread: necessity modification for cj

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    cherrry !! bagpiper1's Avatar
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    Default necessity modification for cj

    Allright guys and girls ? I have an 83 cj5 ,6 banger with a dana 30 front and 20 rear..EVERYTHING is stock except the 2.5 suspension lift. my question is ......
    let me say that all i want to do is ride the trails with most everyone else, i dont want to crawl up a rock face or anything.just trail ride and enjoy watching those guys break stuff on the big rocks....soo... what are the essentials...should i change axles? lockers? carb? someone told me to chunk the p.o.s d20 and someone else told me i will keep breaking the 2 piece axles. and the carb,"although working great" seems to act up when i am at extreme angles . any and all help will be greatly appreciated!

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    Administrator korisu56's Avatar
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    -I have an '84 CJ7

    AMC 20 is fine if you throw one piece axles in it. CJGumby runs 34x10.50's on his AMC 20. First thing I'd do is a belly up. CJ's hang really really low and are vulnerable.

    1. Belly Up
    2. Cage
    3. One piece axles.

    This is purely my opinion. I'm similar to you though, just want to hang without breaking shit.

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    Riverine elwood blues's Avatar
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    I have a '78 CJ7 that I'm just getting to the point it's reliable. I agree with korisu56, one piece axles in that model 20 will go a long way. Ditch that p.o.s. carter carb, it's a piece of tempramental crap that's going to constantly require your attention. You could go progresive 2 barrel Weber or a Holley 350, another popular swap is a Motorcraft (aka Autolite) 2100. The Ford Duraspark module is another failure prone item, either carry a spare or upgrade to an MSD, or similar, ignition system.

    Me too, this is only my opinion.
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    I am a chapter of one sincitycj's Avatar
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    One of the first mods I did was the Team Rush (TFI) upgrade on my 86 CJ. Inexpensive and well worth it, little more power and better mpg is always good. I'll be doing the MSD as soon as I can save enough pennies.
    Quote Originally Posted by usnavymitchells View Post
    went to google to see if I too was a dumb ass!!! Well actually I am.

    http://www.sincityrubs.com/

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    cherrry !! bagpiper1's Avatar
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    Thank you guys.what is a belly up ? is that a spring over ? And yeah..the guy near Bragg here is Wilsons off road, he recommended the MSD and carb, and told me to beef up the axle

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    Senior Member HillBillE's Avatar
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    Things I've done to my '80 CJ7 w/stock drivetrain.

    1- 1 piece axles and stitch weld the tubes to the carrier.

    2- 'Nutter Bypass' if you have an ECU ('83 should) this bypasses it, so the carb and distributor are not controlled by the ECU anymore.

    3- Carb swap/upgrade. I went with the MC2100 and really like it.
    Doesn't stall out on angles like the Carter BBD did.

    4- Distributor upgrade. TFI or HEI. I've done both, and either is a big improvement. I like the HEI one wire hook up, but spend the cash, and get a D.U.I or other good brand name unit. The cheap ones that 4WDH sells are very problem prone.

    5- Blower motor upgrade. Especially if you live where it gets cold!

    6 Belly up/clock the T-case. Makes for better clearance and break over angles, less stuff hanging down to catch rocks/stump/dirt etc.


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    On your SIX! highlandercj-7's Avatar
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    I would put a 4.0L into it. They have more power and FI, it's cheaper to swap than to inject the 258. I have a complete 95 4.0L for sale $500.00 I'm sure they can be had in your area for the same.
    Ditch the 2 piece axle shafts in the mod 20 and you'll be fine. I beat on mine with a 350HP 360 and 35's. I would step to wide trac axles when you upgrade the extra width is nice. If you look you shouls be able to find a set some one else spent the $$ on. I will have my wide tracks for sale this summer. There's always some one selling them to go bigger.
    A near free upgrade is to install TJ flares. It's like adding 3" of body lift without the head aches. You gain that much tire clearence.
    A set of lunch box lockers will take you far too. Lock rite and aussie are good.
    The steering box bracket form sam's offroad or MORE is a good idea.The stock stuff will break.
    HighlanderCJ-7

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    Wheel Man weiland's Avatar
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    Default Sputtering at X-angles

    that is caused by the carb bowl going dry or the gas sloshing away from the pickup... there are a few ways to stop that but a good off road carb, or the floats could be too low causing starving at X-angles the comment above about the 4.0L HO swap is a good one and if it has EFI then there will be no issues but to do that you have to include the computer to control the efi and timing but that should be gotten with the 4.0L... I know more about the V8 4brl sputtering and trail fixes for that but it is all in how much to spend and I am not one to go to a V-8 swap too much work and then it will start snapping things a inline six would most likely not do.

    Just thoughts off the top of my head...

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    Senior Member HillBillE's Avatar
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    Sputtering:

    The factory Carter BBD carb is notoriuos for not working at angles, especially when the nose is pointed up, or on a slight sidehill with the drivers side on the low side.

    To stay with a carb, the best bet is to go with a Weber (36/36 I think?) or go with the MC2100 swap.

    EFI or a 4.0HO would be awsome, but aren't cheap, or as easy.

    I did the MC2100 swap for around $70.

    There's lots of info out there for all 3 solutions.

    I know with the MC2100 swap, you want one with the 1.08 venturi, it was used on older Jeep/AMC 304's, and Ford 302's.

    I picked mine up for $20, the rebuild kit for $26, and the adapter for $15.

    I also picked up a new power valve for under $20.

    All in all, a great, inexpensive swap, that cures the sputtering and shortcomings of the BBD.


    As long as the people remain armed,
    government knows that it cannot rule over the people by force.
    Those who stand in defiance of unconstitutional laws
    do so out of duty, honor, oath and love of country.


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