Sorry...
SOA on a YJ without a SLE and your gonna come up short.
Thinking about doing a spring over same time I repair my frame...
my question is will I need a longer drive shaft? or will my stock one be cool until I can install a SYE?
`89 YJ 4.2 Auto D30 / D35
thanks
`89 YJ 33's 4" lift, High-lined front and rear "The Mistress"
** NOTE TO SELF** it is illegal to stab stupid people in the eye with a pencil
Sorry...
SOA on a YJ without a SLE and your gonna come up short.
Yep, a spring over will net you around 5" lift. You'll need longer shafts front and rear.
And as mentioned, probably an SYE for the rear.
When I did the SOA on my CJ, I found a front driveshaft from an automatic (bit longer than my 4 speed one)
It wasn't quite enoughOne good flex under throttle, and the slip joint fell apart
You may want to research a SOA before doing it. When done right, they work well, but doing it 'right' can cost as much as a 3" or 4" spring lift.
As long as the people remain armed,
government knows that it cannot rule over the people by force.
Those who stand in defiance of unconstitutional laws
do so out of duty, honor, oath and love of country.
"Certified Jeep Junky!"
thanks guys. sounds like I should just go with my orginial plan of getting a 2.5 system and use my 1.25" lifted shackles.
`89 YJ 33's 4" lift, High-lined front and rear "The Mistress"
** NOTE TO SELF** it is illegal to stab stupid people in the eye with a pencil
Grevus...
What is your goal? How much lift, why, and how much tire are you going to be running? Now, before you invest in a lift, is the time to think this through. By adding the 2.5" lift + the shackles...you may or may not still require the sye! Think about where you wish your jeep to be down the road and then research the snot out of your options. If you need the sye anyway and would rather run more lift since the diff. between 2.5 and 4" kits is minimum...why not plan now, spend later?
Plus...by running longer shackles you run into steering geometry issues. Maybe or maybe not so much with the length you mentioned...but thats an if.
Just sharing what I've learned over the years...usually the hard way!![]()
The goal is a LCG build on a budget without having to relocate the stock gas tank. Right now I'm running a total of 2.5 inches with 33's but get rubbing on my R/F fender. I've already trimmed the fenders. I'm sure I may be able to take out more but not much. The rub is with the sway bar connected. I would like to achieve as much flex as I can, without jacking her to the moon. I've thought about a 1" body lift or even get the poly body mounts I've heard they net about an inch of lift as well.
I will end up doing a SYE but I'm working on a strict budget (live in the DC area, so high cost of living plus we're trying to get our finaces straight so we can purchase a house).
Right now I'm exploring my options and doing as much research as I possibly can.
`89 YJ 33's 4" lift, High-lined front and rear "The Mistress"
** NOTE TO SELF** it is illegal to stab stupid people in the eye with a pencil
A 1" BL is a good option, you get new body mount bushings and hardware, and not to many problems with linkages/hoses/etc.
A couple other options are:
Bumpstops- they will limit the uptravel and stop the rubbing, but downtravel will be the same. (had to do this to the rear of my CJ, to avoid cutting the tub)
Flatfenders- you can build flat fenders from your stock ones, pretty cheap. Does require a welder though.
Having the sway bar disconnected will give you better flex, and with a bumpstop just long enough to stop the rubbing, you'll get good droop on the other side.
Staying with a low COG is the way to go, IMHO. You can do a lot of wheeling with 4"-5" lift and 33" tires!![]()
As long as the people remain armed,
government knows that it cannot rule over the people by force.
Those who stand in defiance of unconstitutional laws
do so out of duty, honor, oath and love of country.
"Certified Jeep Junky!"
There is nothing lcg with soa. Plus a ton of headaches. Steering angle,axle wrap and such.
How are your fab skills. Hi lining is always a good way to get clearance.
1" BL are acceptable I wouldnt go any higher.
What kind of jeep are you running? If a yj dump sway and trac bars immediatley.
1" shackles work well. plus smooths out the ride a bit. They would be 2" longer than stock.
I picked up a used front zj shaft with new ujoints for $40 and had a drivline shop shorten it for $70. Might save ya a bit when you do sye.
I miss that stage of my build. Now its down to pricey items...cage and gears
`89 YJ 33's 4" lift, High-lined front and rear "The Mistress"
** NOTE TO SELF** it is illegal to stab stupid people in the eye with a pencil
I am not to sure about the track bars gaining you that much
1981 CJ7- 4in lift on 33's, Twin sticked dana300, aussied D30, Custom bumpers,Herced inside. Riddler covers.
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07 F150 "Tow Whore"- 2.5in auto spring, 33's, Full flomaster exhaust, K&N intake, Edge Programer
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