Reply With Quotecontrol arms and shocks.
Suspension travel question..
let's see if I can explain what I'm asking.
I know that bumpstops stop upward movement of the axle, but does that upward stop also stop the other side downward movement?
basicly what I'm asking, if the driver side is up travel is stopped by bumpstops will the pass. side continue down travel? even if the up travel is stopped?
`89 YJ 33's 4" lift, High-lined front and rear "The Mistress"
** NOTE TO SELF** it is illegal to stab stupid people in the eye with a pencil
control arms and shocks.
No.
There are othere factors included in total suspension travel. The type of control arm, spring, length of shock, brake lines, tire size, and so on.
In a nut shell removing your bumpstops to get more suspension travel is a bad idea. (just guessing at what you had planned)
Got Machete?
98 GC Special Edition 5.9l (build in progress) RE 4.5" SF Lift, Mickey Thompson 33" MTZ's, 15x10 ProComp 152's, ProtoFab Pre-Runner Winch Bumper, 10k winch, Np242 Tcase Swap...
no.. no.. no..
no.. no.. no. lol not removing bump stops..
lol I was actually considering longer bumps, she's leaf sprung too btw
I was just trying to figure out suspension geometery.
I do know that longer shocks, brake lines, ect help with travel. Like I said I am trying to figure out how it works..
`89 YJ 33's 4" lift, High-lined front and rear "The Mistress"
** NOTE TO SELF** it is illegal to stab stupid people in the eye with a pencil
He's got leafs guys.
Droop is droop, it does not increase due to other hitting stop. If you add heavier tire/wheel it will droop a little more, open clamps a little bit more, not as tight shackle bolts (kills bushings-makes more slop on highway). The other factor is twist in the leaf.
Only time I could possible see decreasing on droop side is if compressed side is almost at a negative arch, then it's all leaf twist and bushing give.
Why lengthen stop? Is driveshaft hitting skid, shock bottoming out, leaf hittin negative arch, or tire rubbin in wheel well? You will lose compression, which decreases your total travel.
Dan M.
'85 CJ-7, 4.0L,T18,4.10s,35s,Fully locked,winch,cage
"leafs" whoops, I should have asked. One point that 94G mentioned was brake lines. I had that once too. Wasn't pretty.
Always carry a small vise grip and duct tape. You can still wheel w/ 3 brakes. But yes, fix at home 1st, I'm not on the trail to do your PM's.Originally Posted by Tiff
Dan M.
'85 CJ-7, 4.0L,T18,4.10s,35s,Fully locked,winch,cage
thanks wart,
yea I've got wheel well rub, but I'm thinking of adding the daystar 1" poly body lift and that should fix it.
as said before I was trying to wrap my head around suspension travel.
`89 YJ 33's 4" lift, High-lined front and rear "The Mistress"
** NOTE TO SELF** it is illegal to stab stupid people in the eye with a pencil
Grevus, that's exactly what I did on my CJ (longer bumpstops) I had rubbing after jumping up to 33's from 31's, and didn't want to cut/trim the tub (30 year old, rust free, CJ tub)
As stated, it will limit your overall flex, but it won't hinder the droop of the other side.
Using longer bumpstops will stop the rubbing until you do the BL, bigger suspension, etc. to fix it.
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