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Thread: 3-link or 4-link

  1. #1
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    Default 3-link or 4-link

    well i have come to a major desision in build plans with my heep i decided what i want for my rig and in order to get that i need to get rid of my beloved leaf springs and go to a full linked suspension now the tough desion is what style to run do i run a full triangulated 4link front and rear a 3 link front and rear or a 3 link front and a 4 link rear

    the main goals are a wheel base of about 100" a 90* approach angle no comp cut in the rear a max tire size of 38" due to state laws no more than a 4" to 5" suspenion lift the most amount of travel i can get i plan on using a 12" to 14" travel coil over or nitrogen shock and a high line front and rear and i am tring to get a belly height of about 20" on a flat skid

    i am weighing out all the options so let me know what you all think
    Rocks to a Jeep are like crack to an addict

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  2. #2
    Senior Member jackhammer's Avatar
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    SUA front and four linked rear is hip these days. I ran with a couple like that and they were sick

  3. #3
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    i would run dearchec front lift springs to gain a bit of spring length without having to refab mounts, and a reverse triangulated 4 link. i ran this setup with a VERY healthy stroker and 42" swampers without issue. i went with dearched 2" RE springs which gave me a great shackle angle in the front using the stock mounts and gave alot of flex. i could run a heavier compression this way as well.

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    Ground Pounder BESRK's Avatar
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    Although all of the setups you mentioned can be made to work well, I like dual triangulated 4 links, although they can be difficult to setup around an offset front axle.
    Couple things I like about them.. you have 4 links so if one breaks, you can still move the rig. Break an upper link on a typical 3 link sometime and try to drive back to the trailer.
    A dual triangulated 4 link minimizes torque induced body roll compared to a 3 link that has the upper link offset to one side.
    A dual triangulated 4 link exhibits minimal flex steer when compared to a single triangulated (straight lowers) 4 link.


    Anyhow... that's my opinion.
    1980 CJ5 w/AMC 360, T176, D300 w/4to1, D44s, 3.73s, Lockright/Detroit, 33s, Full Cage

    A Jeep-Based Buggy on 42s.. Big Lime

  5. #5
    Mud Puppy Grevus's Avatar
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    Ive seen some sick rigs running SOA front and 4 link rear but it all depends on how you want your center of gravity to be, personally I'd go full 4 link and make it as low as possible stretching the wheelbase out to 108 or 110
    `89 YJ 33's 4" lift, High-lined front and rear "The Mistress"
    ** NOTE TO SELF** it is illegal to stab stupid people in the eye with a pencil

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    i have seen a few that are set up with a linked rear soa fronts so i think while i am swaping axles i am going soa on stock leaves in the rear and a modified flatened waggy front pack in the front and i am also looking at running a mono leaf for right now so i will see what happens waht i can find in the junk yard i am only looking for about a 100" inch wheel base so i can have a decent breakover angle (i think that is the correct term) on 38's if i was going to run bigger tires i would go longer but i am only going to 38's and am going to be pusing the limits on the axles any way
    Rocks to a Jeep are like crack to an addict

    Quote Originally Posted by Walter View Post
    Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms should be a convienent store, not a government agency.
    Quote Originally Posted by trailsnail View Post
    Anything can be fixed with enough redneckery.

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