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Thread: Upgrade or Repair?

  1. #1
    Senior Member ravengp's Avatar
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    Default Upgrade or Repair?

    My 2001 TJ (4 cyl) that I bought back in '05 has a '96 XJ T-case that the previous owner put in. For some time now, I have had a really bad vibration at highway speeds and recently found the cause. Apparently, the rear output shaft on the t-case is, ever so slightly, bent.

    My deployment money has finally come in and I am wondering how to fix this. The easy answer is put in a SYE and a new CV driveshaft, but this could cost upwards of $500, putting a serious dent in my available funds.

    However, the latest JP mag has an article to rebuilt a t-case for $185...ish.

    Now, a little history here, I love off roading and do it as often as I can. I have 2.5 4 popper, a simple 2" budget boost and 31" tires, but eventually plan on going to a 3.5-4 inch long arm. I'm not planning on going higher than 4" as I want to keep the CG low and run bigger tires. I don't do a whole lot of rock climbing and I tend to avoid the really deep, thick mud. I prefer expeditions and trail riding, but I'm not above working a few rocks for the challenge.

    Funds are a bit of an issue here and if I go with the SYE I am looking at the Currie Enterprises Tailshaft conversion, with the Flange style CV driveshaft. My other option is to have the spare XJ front drive shaft, I have laying about, cut down and use the Currie Flange adapter.

    What should I do here? Should I spend the funds and do the full upgrade, get the SYE and cut the XJ driveshaft, or simply rebuild the transfer case?
    Just because the road stops doesn't mean you have to!

  2. #2
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    i would go with the sye and just cut down the xj ds it works great
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    Mile Hi Mojo Jefe's Avatar
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    Ive got a rear output shaft that's straight. Let me know if you are interested.

  4. #4
    Sunshine and Rainbows Rubitron's Avatar
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    If it were me, I would do an HD short shaft SYE for better strength and DS angle. I would also do 4:1 low range. I have 4:1 in my Rubi and 2.73:1 (stock) in the wife's YJ, while the gears elsewhere are different (axles, trans) the 4:1 friggin C..R..A..W..L..S. The YJ can go slow too, but it's different. I like it because I can drive at a decent speed in 4th 4lo, and still have two more gears to go faster, and three down to crawl.

    EDIT- Having a lower low range will increase your power to the wheels too, which would be pretty benifical (sp?) to your four banger, that would be big motivation for me.
    Last edited by Rubitron; 07-07-2010 at 22:09.

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    Senior Member HillBillE's Avatar
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    A $185 rebuild isn't going to get you a new output shaft.

    You need to either do the SYE, or grab the shaft from Jefe and rebuild.

    If you truly plan to leave the Jeep as it is (no more lift) and do the kind of wheeling you described, doing the SYE would be a waste of money, IMO. The SYE isn't really needed until you hit 3 1/2+" of lift.


    Fix the T-case, and research "Hack and Tap" (cheap DIY SYE ), then use your XJ front shaft. Best of all worlds on a budget!!


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  6. #6
    Senior Member ravengp's Avatar
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    Quadratec made me a good deal on the Rugged Ridge SYE. They price matched the 4 Wheel Online price and gave me a military discount. Also, found a machine shop to cut down the d/s for 40 bucks.

    All told this will be well under $300.

    Now my next question...the instructions for the SYE say that I need to rotate the rear axle so that the differential is pointing at the T-case. Do I really need to do that and if so, how?
    Just because the road stops doesn't mean you have to!

  7. #7
    needs a beer and a nap Rocket's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ravengp View Post
    Do I really need to do that and if so, how?
    do you have a lift with adjustable control arms? that's the easiest way. or you can get coil spring angle adjustment brackets... i can show you a pic of my D44... no brackets, just adjustable control arms.. and it points straight at the back of my SYE

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    Mile Hi Mojo Jefe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rubitron View Post
    If it were me, I would do an HD short shaft SYE for better strength and DS angle. I would also do 4:1 low range. I have 4:1 in my Rubi and 2.73:1 (stock) in the wife's YJ, while the gears elsewhere are different (axles, trans) the 4:1 friggin C..R..A..W..L..S. The YJ can go slow too, but it's different. I like it because I can drive at a decent speed in 4th 4lo, and still have two more gears to go faster, and three down to crawl.

    EDIT- Having a lower low range will increase your power to the wheels too, which would be pretty benifical (sp?) to your four banger, that would be big motivation for me.
    I think that he's trying to fix this under a tight budget, your solution is $1400+.

    If you want to repair it and get back going, replace the shaft an output housing; if you want to alleviate any other chance of vibs, do the sye and ds; if you want to go big or go home, do the 4:1, SYE, and DS.

    I have the shaft and output case if you need.

  9. #9
    Sunshine and Rainbows Rubitron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jefe View Post
    I think that he's trying to fix this under a tight budget, your solution is $1400+.
    Not even close

    http://www.ok4wd.com/index.php/catal...per_short_sye/

    Extreme shorty=longer drive shaft=happy drive shaft=less money replacing sad drive shaft sooner

    http://www.teraflex.biz/products/231...ort-shaft.html

    Ok, so the 4:1 is spendy. Probably better off finding a used 241 from a Rubi, if you ever want it. I think it would help out the 2.5L a LOT.

    But it seems you've already fixed it so good for you!

  10. #10
    Sunshine and Rainbows Rubitron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ravengp View Post
    Now my next question...the instructions for the SYE say that I need to rotate the rear axle so that the differential is pointing at the T-case. Do I really need to do that and if so, how?
    I would talk to a bunch of people before rotating the axle that far. I assume it's a DD (as is mine), and turning it up that far could starve the pinion gear of oil. And it will lower the fill hole on the diff cover meaning you can't put the proper amount of oil in it to begin with. Both of these situations working together will spell certain doom for your ring and pinion. A CV drive shaft will take care of that, they can handle more extreme angles than a regular DS. You may pick up on the domino effect one mod can have.

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