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Thread: Royal Purple? Anybody using it? If so what and how much?

  1. #1
    Thunder FSGARecovery's Avatar
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    Default Royal Purple? Anybody using it? If so what and how much?

    hinking of switching to RP.

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    Free at last... ColoFreeJeeper's Avatar
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    Royal Purple is expensive. My company sells the hypoid 80W-90 for about $17 per quart.

  3. #3
    Got Beer airforce26yrs's Avatar
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    Been running RP in my engine for about 2 1/2 years, ever since I got it rebuilt. I have a quick change oil place that stocks it for me. Cost about $7.50 at NAPA. They change my oil for me for $65 and I take my own filter. Have over 110,000 miles on it now. I change it every 5000 miles.
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    Senior Member cowboy63b's Avatar
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    i run in my axles, t-case, tranny, and engine w/K&N filter, and if they made RP grease i would have it in all my u-joints.
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    Time n Money Ghost00TJ's Avatar
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    running in my tranny, cost a lot but an auto tranny abused needs a little help. ran it in my engine a couple oil changes but I change oil every 5k so I just been using cheap full synthetic and a fram filter.
    F'it, aint my Jeep!
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    Still Growing Too! Big Green's Avatar
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    I've been runnig Mobil1 since I bought my LJ last summer, today I switch to RP.

  7. #7
    darwinism at its best irish1371's Avatar
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    I won a contest for complete amsoil switch over- both diffs lube lockers trany and xfer case. I wont run it in the engine too much cost wise for me and the 4.0 already lasts forever.

    biggest change I saw was my tranny shifted about 500 times better then before
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    Newbie Walldo's Avatar
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    I run RP in the engine and the both axles, will chance the trans and transfer case soon... In my opinion its good stuff. Cheers
    New to me 2006 LJ Rubicon, Just Getting Started
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  9. #9
    Member Hamr25's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cowboy63b View Post
    i run in my axles, t-case, tranny, and engine w/K&N filter, and if they made RP grease i would have it in all my u-joints.
    you mean like this stuff!
    http://www.royalpurple.com/ultra-per...ce-grease.html

    from my experience rp motor oil is worthless. i have run 4 purpose build forced induction high compression race engines, and rp was recommended and run, first two, died from excessive bearing wear, and the third was killed from bearing overheat. two things that a rp says that it is formulated to combat. and i was running the XPR 0w-10 in the first one, 5w-20 in the second, and regular 5w30 in the last, and when i pulled the pan, the oil was thick, and caked. i was never one to run a crazy amount of miles on any engine, i normally follow the 1500 mile rule, with my street cars, and my jeep. track cars got an oil change directly before and directly after events, and weight was determined by type of event either drifting, time attack/pdx, or autocross. after running a good mineral based oil, i noticed lower oil temps, and cling than rp provided. if this is going in a daily that gets beat frequently or gets beat occasionally, rp probally won't be worth it. another thing to is that rp uses a detergent in their oil that with some engines, mainly on you piston rings and ringlands, which some oem companies use a brass/copper/bronze coating to prevent wear, and better heat disposition. this detergent can become corrosive under certain properties, and conditions. this is why rp can be harmful to rotary engines due to the nature that they inject oil into the rotors, for lubrication, which also ends up burning. in terms of high performance oil, it really doesn't matter what you buy, or use, 90% of oils on the market are going to perform the same in street applications, and the claims that they reduce wear is true under certain circumstances and tested in specific engines. as far as the gear oil, its alright, if you don't use what the factory recommends (gl4, gl5, weight depending), expect shorter syncro life in manual transmissions. gl5 is corrosive to brass syncro's. i'm not saying if you run rp your engine is doomed, i'm just wanting to let everyone know that its not all that it is cracked up to be. you may see better performance when you hit the skinny pedal, but what you are not seeing is the internal harm some products are causing. corrosion can be a slow process, so you may not see it for another 100k miles. but its the potential for harm that makes me walk away from a product. you want some really good oil, just find one that is the correct weight and viscosity for conditions, and environment, and has a good mineral base. castrol i know is mainly mineral based oil, and is available at pretty much anywhere. same thing with mobil one, you cannot argue with the number 1 engine oil in professional racing whether its formula one, nascar, indy, nhra, ihra, etc. i personally do not like rebuilding engines prematurely due to excessive wear, i like mine to last, and i would rather see 300,000 miles, than a 2% gain in acceleration from a mediocre engine oil, or a cheap bolt on upgrade that has overly hyped gains. and also to note is that if your engine has high mileage switching from one oil to another can be very detrimental to internal parts, and surfaces. enough rambling, and ranting. rp is not everything its cracked up to be. do the research, google is your friend, and find it out. i've had bad experiences with rp, and will never buy it again.
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  10. #10
    Newbie JK Pilot's Avatar
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    No comment regarding Jeeps. I do know almost all my contacts refuse to run it in their Harleys. Even the local HD service manager warned me not to use it and they sell it. My Jeep gets Mobil 1 regularly,,,even if I go 5000 miles beyond the recommended interval.

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