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Thread: Ballistic Fab steering question

  1. #1
    Sunshine and Rainbows Rubitron's Avatar
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    Default Ballistic Fab steering question

    I had this whole cute little story about how my factory steering sucks and my browser crashed and I don't feel like writing it again. Lame. So I'll cut to the chase. I'm on 33's, next tires will be 35-36. I'm liking Ballistic Fab's steering setups but not sure which one I want/need.

    This was my original thought
    http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...rs_p_1337.html

    Then I thought maybe I could save 30 bucks and go with this
    http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...rs_p_1335.html

    Both kits are the same, 1.5 OD .250 wall tube, step down spacers to a 5/8 bolt. Only the heim joints are different. I don't know enough to know which size is appropriate. So that's my question. Thanks much.
    Last edited by Rubitron; 01-07-2011 at 13:03. Reason: Fixed links
    Quote Originally Posted by jaredmcvay View Post
    I think we look at ourselves more like a combination of a motorcycle gang and a pack of angry, wild beavers. We are a total package!

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    Member michdave's Avatar
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    I can't speak from experience; but everyone I've spoken too who had heim joints on a vehicle that they drive on the road has been disappointed. Not in the perfromance of the joints, but the life span. I guess they wear out very fast when used on the street as a daily driver. Just something you may want to check into before dropping the cash on it.
    2008 JK Unlimited~ 4" Teraflex lift, 35" BFG KM2's, Dynatrac ProRock 44 e-locked, 5.13's, JKS QD's, JKS F&R Trackbars, MM 9500 winch, Rockhard 4x4 Full Skid System, AEV snorkel, SS brakelines,...and it goes on, and on, and on,..

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    Sunshine and Rainbows Rubitron's Avatar
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    I had heard that they weren't as streetable as ball joints, but not in a lifespan sense. And this is my DD. Hmmm
    Quote Originally Posted by jaredmcvay View Post
    I think we look at ourselves more like a combination of a motorcycle gang and a pack of angry, wild beavers. We are a total package!

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    I'd go the 7/8" rod ends for more misalignment with a 5/8" bolt. Plenty of people use them on DD's and they work great. They do wear out a bit faster than TRE's(about half the lifespan), but they make for some very tight steering...zero slop. I like it.

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    if you're really worried about it, you should go for the chevy TRE steering kit ballistic sells. actually yes, that's definitely what you should do. remember that your draglink always has to be as long or close to as long as the track bar, and always at the same angle or you will get bump steer. You want the Y link kit

    with the TRE steering kit your drag link should be close to stock length, so you should be able to keep the same track bar that you are running right now. You'll have very minimal, if any, bump steer.

    You're going to have to buy or borrow a reamer though to do the knuckles and pitman arm though.

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    Senior Member jackhammer's Avatar
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    Ok this is what I have..I went to jcr offroad and wrote down the part numbers for the tre that they use in there kit. Went to orielleys and bought them for a total of 70 bucks. I got the reamer from complete offroad for like 65. A fellow jeeper sold me his old links with weldable bungs on end. I had to shorten the drag link. But in doing so found out he sleeved on the inside of tube it was sleeved with another smaller tube. strong as hell. My buddy(the welder)did his same time and ordered bungs. His wernt threaded all the way through keep your eye open for that. You want bungs that are threaded all the way through more threads equals more strength. Oh and dont weld one solid bead when welding bungs on...bitch getting tre to screw in..I ended up with prob euivalent to 1 ton steering for about 200...opposite threaded jam nuts expensive. I did tie rod flip and am sprung under. Assuming you have tj...zj tie rod is a cheap upgrade too. difference is links are solid...helped a bud do it on xj and he has had no problems....reamer isnt too bad just take time and have 2people...1 to put cutting oil on while you ream slowly...keep straight and check depth with tre every lil bit...I will post link to a pathetically wriiten thread I did about it.... herre you go.... http://www.gljt.org/modules.php?name...&highlight=ton

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    Senior Member jackhammer's Avatar
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    Hope that helps....looking back on pics of my finish you can totaly tell how beefy the chromo shafts are on ds compared to stock tj shaft on passenger....lol

  8. #8
    Sunshine and Rainbows Rubitron's Avatar
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    I went with the 7/8 kit. Ordered a few days ago, didn't even look at the Chevy kit cuz it said Chevy. It does look strong though.
    Quote Originally Posted by jaredmcvay View Post
    I think we look at ourselves more like a combination of a motorcycle gang and a pack of angry, wild beavers. We are a total package!

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    Senior Member jackhammer's Avatar
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    I am running 35 inch gy mtr with kevlar and a 5.2L magnum pushing bout 250 hp and steering still going strong. I am not a brand snob. chevy tre and ford 8.8 rear end..whatever will do the job...btw deal breaker for me was cant goto orielleys or auto zone and wanlk out with those heims when in need of quick fix

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    Sunshine and Rainbows Rubitron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackhammer View Post
    I am not a brand snob.
    Nor am I, but I don't drive a Chevy.
    Quote Originally Posted by jaredmcvay View Post
    I think we look at ourselves more like a combination of a motorcycle gang and a pack of angry, wild beavers. We are a total package!

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