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Thread: U Joints on the Drive line???

  1. #1
    Jeepless Jeeper brewcoltiii's Avatar
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    Default U Joints on the Drive line???

    I just got some spicer u joints for the rear drive shaft. Yes they are bad as the drive shaft has play. I can't get the damn u joints out of the drive shaft!!!!! I banged on it with a 3/4" socket and hammer, but it still doesn't budge. I removed the clamps holding the joint caps together. I got the rear of the shaft removed from the rear axle. I'm not a weakling either. I hammer the S**T out of the stuff and nothing is budging. I tried to jube it up with WD40, still no movement. I'm lost, needing help, and I got an booboo from being pinched when the needle nose slipped. HELP?????

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    Senior Member HillBillE's Avatar
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    Don't use WD-40, it's main purpose is Water Displacement. Best stuff I've found is called PB Blaster. Soak the caps down with that.

    If they are really bad, you might need a press. But usually a 3lb sledge and a vice is all ya need, especially on a newer rig.

    Harbor Frieght sells a Ball Joint/U-joint "C" press that works decent enough.

    Here's a good write up on Stu Olsens site: http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/ujoint2/ujoint-1.htm


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    Jeepless Jeeper brewcoltiii's Avatar
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    If I read the write up correctly, it says to remove the shaft from the transfer case. Is that correct?

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    Senior Member HillBillE's Avatar
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    ETA: Stu moves things around (read: updates his site!) Here's another good write up by Stu himself. It deals with rebuilding a front TJ (cardan style) driveshaft. On this one he uses the HF "C" press. The first link, the writer (Steve) uses the hammer and socket method.

    http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/driv...iveshaft-1.htm

    I have a different method I use, with just a hammer and vice. I'll have to do a write up some day with good pics, and post it up. I've never seen it on the web the way I do it.

    Hope this helps Brew!!

    HB


    As long as the people remain armed,
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    Senior Member HillBillE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brewcoltiii View Post
    If I read the write up correctly, it says to remove the shaft from the transfer case. Is that correct?

    Makes it a whole lot easier to change a U-joint, if the shaft is all the way out. You don't have to, but it's pretty simple, and makes it go smoother.

    Just keep the good caps on the joint (if you have to pull straps/u-bolts) and tape them together as shown in the pic, so the needle bearings don't fall out.


    As long as the people remain armed,
    government knows that it cannot rule over the people by force.
    Those who stand in defiance of unconstitutional laws
    do so out of duty, honor, oath and love of country.


    "Certified Jeep Junky!"


  6. #6
    F it! It ain't my Jeep. Ricky Booby's Avatar
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    I have used the Harbor Freight U joint press as well. Got it for $20. If the shaft is out of the Jeep, why not cut the cross on the joint? It won't hurt anything since you're not going to reuse it.
    www.pnwjeep.com

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    Jeepless Jeeper brewcoltiii's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mp101v View Post
    I have used the Harbor Freight U joint press as well. Got it for $20. If the shaft is out of the Jeep, why not cut the cross on the joint? It won't hurt anything since you're not going to reuse it.
    I will definitely look at harbor freights stuff. If I had a torch in order to cut it, I would try that, but I am a little bit on the layman side.

  8. #8
    Senior Member SavageSun4x4's Avatar
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    I know Stu very well and that is a good write up by him. Stu asked me to help him out on testing a Jeep fuel filter for him. Something I recommend everyone run. The writeup is on his website and mine. You would be STUNNED on how much junk gets past the OEM filter...

    HillBil is correct on WD 40, its meant for water displacement, PB is good juice!

    Some of the u joint setups that are OEM and never cracked have a small plastic plug that holds it together and you need to take a propane torch to remove (melt) it out in order to extract the u joint. If you DS have had a rebuild at any time then this would not apply.

    Maybe out of just good luck or perhaps as I like to think, good ole PM, preventive maintenance I have never had a u joint fail on me. i like u joints as they literally transmit their intended failure long before it happens (except in catastrophic failure??? maybe) Its my general belief that catastrophic failure is generally the result of excessively worn u joints and that regular inspections will prevent such.

    That said you really need to know WHAT to look for and how to inspect a u joint to read the tea leaves so to speak.

    Pics here on identifying potential u joint failure: http://www.militaryjeepers.com/commu...319#post243319
    Don

    '15 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon Hard Rock...OLD SCHOOL 6 Spd Manual Trans
    17 Oaks Ranch Companies LLC

    www.savagesun4x4.com

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    Junior Member gvns8's Avatar
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    x2 on the harbor freight u-joint removal tool. I have used that multiple times and it makes it very easy. With an impact air wrench to turn the u-joint removal tool, the whole process takes about 1 minute.

  10. #10
    Senior Member CutterN55's Avatar
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    big brass punch and a BFH. Install with a vice. Did all of them on my waggy this way. Took some cussing and a lot of noise for the neighbors.
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