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Thread: Death Wobble

  1. #1
    covered in mud tickwomp's Avatar
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    Default Death Wobble

    it's back. The new tires I threw on it a few months back must have been just masking the problem. I'm at wits end with this thing.
    3rd Batallion 5th Marines
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    Member michdave's Avatar
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    I had multiple things causing mine last time on my JK. I know they're a different breed, but it may be worth checking some of this stuff out if you haven't already.

    ball joints shit out
    Cheap Sway bar QD's
    Draglink ends wore out
    Trackbar mounts on axle and frame "loosened" (see the video)

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mLfjn...eature=related

    Hopefully one of those help's ya man. I know that shit sucked bad. I've since replace the front axle (with HD trackbar mounts), got new QD's, Poly Performance flipped HD draglink and Tierod,.....and finally my Jeep drives straight, and handles good. You don't want to know what all that crap cost though. haha.....

    Good luck bud.
    2008 JK Unlimited~ 4" Teraflex lift, 35" BFG KM2's, Dynatrac ProRock 44 e-locked, 5.13's, JKS QD's, JKS F&R Trackbars, MM 9500 winch, Rockhard 4x4 Full Skid System, AEV snorkel, SS brakelines,...and it goes on, and on, and on,..

  3. #3
    covered in mud tickwomp's Avatar
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    thanks for the link. I'll investigate when the sun comes up tomorrow.
    3rd Batallion 5th Marines
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    the only way i could fix the death wobble on my old XJ was a PP weld on 3 link with RE 5.5" coils, homebrew track bar, double bypass resi shocks. i actually coined up and bought a RE Super FLEX 4.5" hoping that replacing everything would fix it, ended up finding the front axle was bent about .375" on the longside tube and was causing it. atleast it rode nice when i was done...

    ive just started getting it in the TJ with a 4.5" set of springs on stock Control arms. ill eventually fix the whole issue with a dual triangulated 4 link with a full width 609 up front with ORI's...

  5. #5
    Senior Member Sr. Beaver's Avatar
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    http://www.militaryjeepers.com/commu...ht=death+wbble


    Here's a great list of just about anything that can cause DW

    Over and under torqued TRE's ball joints are a very common cause that I have seen over the years, it's not always a worn part. So I'd check everything on the list for both wear and proper torque.

    Hope this helps ya out.
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    i think i r druck and will rechecck in the morning





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  6. #6
    Μολὼν λάβε Mr.RonGilbert's Avatar
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    I had it bad.... it sucked big time. Had to get my castor dialed in to about 4.5 - make sure you are toe'd in about 1/8 and check the track bar to drag link angle - that plus anything that is loose - where the drag link connects to the tie rod is the first place to check along with the BJs.

    I had to take mine to a shop that does the laser alignments, the spot where I was getting my angles was off enough to cause DW - castor dialed in and no DW.

    Some will say to increase castor until it goes away or until you get drive line vibrations - those that I have talked to said that drive line vibrations come in at 6+ castor so if you get that you need to back it down. Stock castor is 4.5

    Good luck, I feel your pain.


  7. #7
    Senior Member SavageSun4x4's Avatar
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    Tick, there is so much on here on DW and the inputs to DW are so many that you really need to get smart on DW.

    To fix DW is to understand it.

    I have posted a cure for it on here over in the Tech section which works on TJ/JK. My writeups and pics are all over here and the internet.

    If you do your research you can sort thru the right and wrong advice that is also posted all over the place.

    In summary:

    1) INSURE CASTER, wheel balance is correct, Toe to be set 1/8 in IN +/- 1/16 in

    2) Big tire's and or high mileage rig, then have ball joints and front shocks inspected

    3) Big tires? upgrade your SS to a Rancho 5401 or 5407

    4) TJ/JK then chances are its your Track Bar either the frame mount or wobbled out bushing at the axle. Inspect bushing for wallow and TRE frame mount for free movement or able to move easily with hand. For a low buck fix, replace TB, want to do it right then follow my write up.

    5) There are other factors that may initiate or contribute to DW, but if you do the above I would call it a near 100% chance of solving your problem at least for a short time unless you replace the mis-engineered Frame mount (my writeup and pics are posted on this forum).

    If you need help ask, PM or we can talk on the fone...

    Search is your friend.
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  8. #8
    covered in mud tickwomp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SavageSun4x4 View Post
    Tick, there is so much on here on DW and the inputs to DW are so many that you really need to get smart on DW.

    To fix DW is to understand it.

    I have posted a cure for it on here over in the Tech section which works on TJ/JK. My writeups and pics are all over here and the internet.

    If you do your research you can sort thru the right and wrong advice that is also posted all over the place.

    In summary:

    1) INSURE CASTER, wheel balance is correct, Toe to be set 1/8 in IN +/- 1/16 in

    2) Big tire's and or high mileage rig, then have ball joints and front shocks inspected

    3) Big tires? upgrade your SS to a Rancho 5401 or 5407

    4) TJ/JK then chances are its your Track Bar either the frame mount or wobbled out bushing at the axle. Inspect bushing for wallow and TRE frame mount for free movement or able to move easily with hand. For a low buck fix, replace TB, want to do it right then follow my write up.

    5) There are other factors that may initiate or contribute to DW, but if you do the above I would call it a near 100% chance of solving your problem at least for a short time unless you replace the mis-engineered Frame mount (my writeup and pics are posted on this forum).

    If you need help ask, PM or we can talk on the fone...

    Search is your friend.
    I know there is info all over the site, I've started a thread or two myself on it. My problem is that no matter what miracle cures other people used, nothing is working for my Jeep. I had it fixed for several months and it just came back a few days ago. I'm more frustrated at this point than curious. Cost me 1100 bucks to 'fix' it last time.
    3rd Batallion 5th Marines
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    www.MilitaryFitnessForum.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by tickwomp View Post
    I know there is info all over the site, I've started a thread or two myself on it. My problem is that no matter what miracle cures other people used, nothing is working for my Jeep. I had it fixed for several months and it just came back a few days ago. I'm more frustrated at this point than curious. Cost me 1100 bucks to 'fix' it last time.
    i did that with my XJ. even paid a shop to check it out, everything was tuned in perfect. camber, caster, pinion angle, akerman angle, DL/TB angles, axle center properly, long arm bolt on suspension kit, new steering from the column to hydro asssist. nothing would fix it. itd be gone for a week or so then rear its head again. i finally got pissed and jsut tore it completely down. while measuring for my link mounts i found the mounts were 1/16" of an inch off from the factory but with adjustable control arms i would have though they would have masked it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 91YEEPER View Post
    i did that with my XJ. even paid a shop to check it out, everything was tuned in perfect. camber, caster, pinion angle, akerman angle, DL/TB angles, axle center properly, long arm bolt on suspension kit, new steering from the column to hydro asssist. nothing would fix it. itd be gone for a week or so then rear its head again. i finally got pissed and jsut tore it completely down. while measuring for my link mounts i found the mounts were 1/16" of an inch off from the factory but with adjustable control arms i would have though they would have masked it.

    *edit* i ran 3 different sets of tires/rims with no luck.

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