wow. what was failing dude?
(rant on)
im stuck in germany and parts and shops are hard to come buy. tried to go through inspection in jan. and failed for various things. I fixed most of what i knew how to and with what i had. went back again and failed again for the second time. now since i couldnt fix it in the 2 months that they gave me now I have to put it in storage and they are giving me 60 days to fix whats left to fix. grrr
(rant off)
"A soldier who can't fight is like a dog with no teeth"
89 YJ with 2.5l motor and a 5 speed
SOA, SYE, 33" by 12.5" on fake beadlocks, Tom Woods driveshaft, Rugged Ridge HD steering linkage, Warn steering box skidplate, Daystar Rock crusher rear bumper, Daystar Polyurethane bushing kit, Tomken steering box support, Hi-Lift jack, Currie F+R greaseable shackles, Auto-Meter guages, Smittybilt F/bumper, Smittybilt 8k winch, Viair onboard air, free stuff from uncle sam
wow. what was failing dude?
i have a tear in my drivers seat and it shows alittle bit of the metal, my braided steel brake lines are too long and they are worried that it will rub on the tires, my manual steering gearbox has too much play and finally one of my brand new steering rod ends has too much play in it also.
"A soldier who can't fight is like a dog with no teeth"
89 YJ with 2.5l motor and a 5 speed
SOA, SYE, 33" by 12.5" on fake beadlocks, Tom Woods driveshaft, Rugged Ridge HD steering linkage, Warn steering box skidplate, Daystar Rock crusher rear bumper, Daystar Polyurethane bushing kit, Tomken steering box support, Hi-Lift jack, Currie F+R greaseable shackles, Auto-Meter guages, Smittybilt F/bumper, Smittybilt 8k winch, Viair onboard air, free stuff from uncle sam
1- are there any junkyards with potential replacements for your seat? probably cheaper than buying new and sending it over.
2- can you zip tie the braids to the shock body or anywhere else for the inspection?
3- are you out of adjustment room on your gear box? I adjusted mine in a few minutes.
4- can't help with the new tie-rod end. hah
order tom motorsports racing seats. dirt cheap and look decent.
WHEN IN DOUBT, STOMP ON IT, HIT IT HARDER, USE A BIGGER HAMMER, CLOSE YOUR EYES AND HANG ON!
1- no real junk yards around here and
2- i already took a hose clamp with a rubber hose split down the middle for insulation and clamped them tight to the shock body, but they still say that it needs to be mounted to the frame and the caliper only.
3- going to do that as soon as i am able
4- i have new tie rod ends just figured they were good after i tightened up the steering linkage but they still want a new one put on the pitman arm side.
"A soldier who can't fight is like a dog with no teeth"
89 YJ with 2.5l motor and a 5 speed
SOA, SYE, 33" by 12.5" on fake beadlocks, Tom Woods driveshaft, Rugged Ridge HD steering linkage, Warn steering box skidplate, Daystar Rock crusher rear bumper, Daystar Polyurethane bushing kit, Tomken steering box support, Hi-Lift jack, Currie F+R greaseable shackles, Auto-Meter guages, Smittybilt F/bumper, Smittybilt 8k winch, Viair onboard air, free stuff from uncle sam
That sucks! I use a small spring, zip tied to the shock body on one end, and the brake line on the other. The spring allows movement, but pulls the brake line away from the tire.
I would find some stock (or shorter) lines, once the inspection is passed, throw the braided ones back on. And keep the short ones for next time inspection rolls around.
As long as the people remain armed,
government knows that it cannot rule over the people by force.
Those who stand in defiance of unconstitutional laws
do so out of duty, honor, oath and love of country.
"Certified Jeep Junky!"
Just make them happy. Try to find some cloth and stuff some foam in the seat then put the patch over it. A little needle and tread work should suffice. As far as the brake line just spend a few bucks and some time and put the stock lines on for the inspection. i know it is a pain and you may have to buy the new lines and bleed the brake but after the inspection put the steel bradded lines back on. The rest you already have figured out. Just remember that the inspection is once a year. Make them happy just long enough to get the sticker then back to normal. The brake line seems to be the only thing you would need to change after the inspection. Good Luck and hope it all works out. Keep us posted.
GET ER UNDONE
RANT!
1) You are in GER and they hate our friggen guts and do anything and everything to make life difficult. Want to watch them turn red, tell them you are the grand son of the great, late Gen Georgie Patton. Yea I know its the Americans doing the inspections but we MUST comply with what ever friggen rules the Germs dream up.
2) When you elect me POTUS, I will fix this. a) Pay the phuck up or we are out of here and the Rusky's will kick you ass from here to Sunday b) if we stay we play by our rules not yours, we won the damn war, DO NOT ever forget it and the first thing I am doing is sending the 2nd AD over here just in case you forgot the name Georgie Patton and that paperhangin SOB Hitler!
Now are there any questions?
RANT OVER!
Sorry to hear, hope you get it fixed and sure hope you do have a job that has to interface with the Germs union attitudes...
Don
'15 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon Hard Rock...OLD SCHOOL 6 Spd Manual Trans
17 Oaks Ranch Companies LLC
www.savagesun4x4.com
most of those are simple fixes.
brakes lines are easily relocated by moving the factory mount at the frame to take up the slack.
manual gearbox is an easy adjustment. its takes alot of adjusting it or it not being set properly to wear one out completely.
TRE needs to be replaced
seat is a foam and needle work job.
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