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Thread: new jeep possibly... pros and cons??

  1. #1
    Is scrounging for parts dmaxjeep's Avatar
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    Default new jeep possibly... pros and cons??

    Well, I am thinking about trading in the 98 TJ on one of the newer ones 09 or 10 model

    went a test drove a couple yesterday, one of the two door and one of the 4 door models.

    cant decide which one i like more. I am kinda partial to the two door since that is what I have always had but, I have a kid on the way (in about 3 weeks) and was thinking that the 4 door might be the new way to go since i like my 4 door crew cab truck

    what are some pros and cons of the 4 door vs the two door?
    1990 YJ, Sold

    1998 TJ, traded

    2009 JK Rubicon Unlimited

  2. #2
    Junior Member Shelly1's Avatar
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    We have one of each. Lots more room in the 4 door. I haven't taken my 2 door off road yet but our unlimited went everywhere we asked it to for camp mj east. Sure it was a bit longer than the 2 doors on the trail but only had one spot where that really mattered (and shelly will get an aftermarket bumper out of the deal so it's not all bad ). If you're going to be hauling kids and groceries, the unlimited is the way to go. My two cents.
    Russ & Shelly
    2010 Jeep Wrangler Sahara Unlimited

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    Μολὼν λάβε Mr.RonGilbert's Avatar
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    I was dead set on a 2dr when I went out to buy my 08' because a Jeep "should be a 2dr" My kids were 5 and 6 at the time so there was room for them in the back seat of the 2dr. For giggles I looked at the 4dr and liked the extra room, no climbing into the back seat etc... I am so glad that I ended up with the 4dr. It has not held me back on the trail. The longer wheel base has helped more than it has hindered. There has not been a trail that I didn't run because of the extra length and I wheel the shit out of mine. At the most I have had to make a few 3pt turns when following a 2dr on tight trails - no big deal IMO. I have been able to walk over obstacles that 2drs have to work on because of the extra reach with the longer wheel base.

    Both are very capable, the 2dr is proven for sure - the 4dr has been making a name for itself since it came out.

    The addition of the kiddo is going to change your objectives for sure, your little one is not going to stay little for long at all. Fooling with the car seat / from the front door is for sure doable but will be much easier from the back door. I camp with my boy (7) a bunch and really like the extra room. We can fold the seats down and sleep in the back and carry as much gear as we need.


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    Tattooed Jeeper Irish_Assassin's Avatar
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    I don't have a wrangler but if I did I would get the 4 door IMO.
    Quote Originally Posted by usnavymitchells View Post
    I am officially a Huge Steeler's Fan!
    97 ZJ Murdered Out! (SOLD ), 5.5" Clayton L/A's front and rear, 242 swap, HP30 & 8.8 w/ 4.88's & Eaton ELocker's F/R, 35" Goodyear Wrangler MT/R's with Kevlar.

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    Member Hamr25's Avatar
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    stock 4 door = bad break over angle. ask gijeeper about his issues on a few places at our local wheeling spot where he and another 4 door jku had issues. other than that i would buy a 4 door for a daily.
    -We have all put every last dime we have, and every minute of time into this. We have all sacrificed a lot in our lives. Some more than others, some for longer than others.-
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    Newbie Yoggie's Avatar
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    I have had a 2dr JK for almost 4 years. I have done a LOT of hard core rock crawling to include Pritchet Canyon in Moab. Go with the 4 door. The 4 doors work much better for rock crawling because they can reach to the top of the tall ledges without having to worry about falling over backwards. On Pritchet, the only jeeps that dont need to be winched or towed are the 4 doors. The 4 doors on 37s made the Rock crawlers on 42s look like amateurs.

    Also, they are night and day on the road. The 4 door is nice and stable and a breeze to drive and a 2 door is a handle.

    However, the day you buy your 4 door put on some Rock Hard (or any high quality) full skid plates. They cost a little over $1k and they are worth every penny. The stock skids are worthless and I destroyed them the first weekend I had my jeep. In fact, I hit them so hard that it bent some of the mounting holes and I had a hard time getting my new skid plates to fit. With good plates, you wont have to worry about bottoming out because your bottom will be totally protected, to include your front and rear drive shafts.
    2007 2dr JK on 35s.

  7. #7
    Is scrounging for parts dmaxjeep's Avatar
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    I guess I am gonna go with the 4 door...

    how much lift is needed to run 35 inch tires?
    1990 YJ, Sold

    1998 TJ, traded

    2009 JK Rubicon Unlimited

  8. #8
    Newbie Yoggie's Avatar
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    This is going to be a long rambling post, so grab a seat and sit down.

    I am running 315/75r16s; basically a little over 34x12.4 with a ~$300 2.5 inch budget boost from Teraflex and a little bit of trimming of the factory rock rail and rear plastic fender. I now have a 3 inch OME lift with new shocks and heavy duty springs because I destroyed my stock springs by taking the bump stops off (bad idea) and they inverted a few times on the trail. I am running with the heavy duty springs because I have heavy bumpers with a winch, lots of skid plates, a weld on cage, and lots off tools and gear. There are at least a dozen different good lift companies out there and OME is just one of them. They all have a little different focus and trade offs (price vs longevity; on road vs rock crawling vs high speed) so you will have to decide what you need. There are several JK specific forums that you should start researching. Just understand that some of the forums are sponsored by some of the companies so they will delete bad reviews of their sponsors and delete good reviews of companies that dont pay them off, so make sure you visit several of the forums before you make any decisions.

    Have you considered going to 37s? They look and fit very well on the 4 doors. If you are going with a full suspension lift, the cost between a 3 inch lift for 35s and a 4 inch lift for 37s is about a 5-10% increase in cost. You will have to worry more about the week front axle (the Rubicon run a Dana 44 internals in a Dana 30/35 tube); but that can be fixed for around ~$150 in parts and ~$150 to pay a good welder to do the work.

    I would also recommend getting a late 07 or 08 to have more money to spend on the lift; or go with a 12 to get the much better engine and much better auto trans. The auto trans on the 07s-11s is terrible. Its week, unreliable, and saps all of your power but the new 5 speed should be much better. The 6 speed man trans is a great transmission if you like man transmissions, but I know that isnt an option for everyone and they aren't always better on the trail. A friend of mine purchased a 2010 model new because it was only about $3k more than a heavily used 07 so take a look at new vs used. Dont forget that a used loan is usually a higher APR so car that starts out $3k cheaper could end up costing you more in the end once interest is figured in.

    If you wanted to do it right I would recommend going with a high miles 07 X base model. Get rid of the stock axles and just run locked Dana 60s front and rear with 37s. It sounds crazy at first, but do the math and it might end up putting you ahead in the end.

    Please let me know what questions you have. I am currently sitting on a 12 hour midnight shift so I have plenty of time to help...
    2007 2dr JK on 35s.

  9. #9
    Junior Member Shelly1's Avatar
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    We have a 4" short arm on ours with 35s...runs great and no complaints. I'd be worried about running 37s... The rear wheel wells have a sharp edge that would need to be trimmed for anything bigger than 35 IMO. I'd wait for the 2012 . That extra HP is going to awesome!
    Russ & Shelly
    2010 Jeep Wrangler Sahara Unlimited

  10. #10
    Member michdave's Avatar
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    I agree a lot with what Yoggie is saying, although I went a slightly different route. What scares me about the 07's, are the freakish electrical accidents that were present. Some people have not had a single one, but I know people (two of my buddies) who's Jeeps would go hay-wire and shut off by themselves when driving. The dealership could never diagnose the issue either. As much as I would love the manual, I gota smoking deal on mine and it was an auto-. It's been a great Jeep, but I've also taken precautions, such as adding a tranny cooler and what not.

    Keep in mind, with tire size.....how heavy is your Jeep going to be. In our old torquey TJ's, heavy bumpers and skids didn't matter too much. In my 4-door....it's really hurt. I've added full-lenght bumpers front and rear (w/front winch) weighing in around 375-400lbs. Full skid-system form Rock Hard (oil pan/trans/transfer case/full fuel tank/evap) and thats another 300-350lbs. Too mend that ugle front axle, I opted to add the Dynatrac ProRock 44, which added anothe 120lbs over the stock axle. Now you add the extra rolling mass of 35's compared to the stock 29-30's,.....it's a hog. I'm running 5.13's and also have a Hypertech programer; and I average 15-17mpg around town if I'm light on the pedal,...ready for the weird part? On the expressway it goes down to 13-14mpg to keep that thing at 70mph.

    My first lift was a 3 inch Zone.....It was junk. Now I'm running a Teraflex 4inch short arm. It's great, but it's really too much lift for the 35's. Expecially after I've added a one inch leveling spacer in front and a 1/2 spacer in the rear to correct my spring angle. Here are a few pic's....

    pic1- 3 inch lift w/33" Cooper STT
    pic2- 3 inch lift w/35 BFG KM2's
    pic3- (left) 4inch lift w/35's (right) 3inch lift w/33" BFG A/T
    33s.jpg35s.jpgDSC02590.JPG
    2008 JK Unlimited~ 4" Teraflex lift, 35" BFG KM2's, Dynatrac ProRock 44 e-locked, 5.13's, JKS QD's, JKS F&R Trackbars, MM 9500 winch, Rockhard 4x4 Full Skid System, AEV snorkel, SS brakelines,...and it goes on, and on, and on,..

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