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Thread: Rear main seal

  1. #1
    Land Squid Jeffb_79's Avatar
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    Default Rear main seal

    So, it appears I may have a rear main seal leak. The jeep is an auto '05 rubicon.
    I've looked at some write ups and it doesn't look overly difficult to replace.
    If I do it myself, it looks like about $60 in parts, $40 for new oil/filter, the cost of the hobby shop stall, and about 6 hrs of my time.
    I don't mind doing it myself, but if it will only cost $100-200 to get taken care of at the dealer, I'd rather save some time.
    Any idea how much it would cost to have someone do it?

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    Mountain Valley Customs
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    Yes you can do it yourself in your driveway in about 2 hours.
    Mountain Valley Customs www.mvcustoms.com 570.217.7284
    Specializing in 4x4s and custom fabrication


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    Junior Member XTRM-TJ's Avatar
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    Just make sure you have the right parts and tools. Ithink I saw some write ups on Pirate a while back

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    Land Squid Jeffb_79's Avatar
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    Yeah... I'm still looking for a price.
    The thing is, my jeep only has 37k miles on it. Would this be covered under the powertrain warranty?

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    I could be. The first time mine went out, the local Jeep dealership covered it. They weren't happy about the lift and stuff, but when I argued that my lift and bigger tires had nothing to do with the rear main leaking, they caved and fixed it. Mine only had about 14K when it went.

    A rear main seal is going to cost you about $21. Then you need an oil filter (if you want to change it), an oil pan gasket and 6 quarts of your preferred oil. When you have all that and are ready to start....

    Park on a level surface.
    Drain engine oil
    Remove oil pan. (the taller your lift, the easier this will be)
    Remove rear most crank cap
    Notice how the rear main seal is sitting in the half that you just removed.
    Remove old Rear main seal and install new half. Be sure you put silicon on the ends where the cap is going to meet the block.
    Now, take a small screwdriver and push on the metal insert of the rear main seal half that is still in the block. You should be able to work it around the crankshaft and push it out the other side. Try VERY hard not to score the crank journal.
    Lightly coat the new half with vasoline and slip it back around the crankshaft journal.
    Install the other half of the rear cap and torque to spec.
    Install new oil pan gasket after scraping all old gasket away.
    Install Oil pan and torque bolts to spec
    Reinstall drain plug, if you haven't done so already.
    Add your oil.
    Start and let engine run for a few seconds.
    Check Oil dipstick.
    Wipe down the underside so that you can see if there is still a leak.
    Mountain Valley Customs www.mvcustoms.com 570.217.7284
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    I just did something similar to this on my wifes TJ, I had to put a new oil pump in it. Dropping the pan is super easy, if you have a lift it is easier, if you have a Nth TT and modified exaust, it really sucks. As long as you can get the exaust out of the way it is easily a 2 maybe 3 hour job.
    2006 Rubicon Unlimited, 6" Nth degree LA, RE remote reservoir shocks, 4.88's, Alloy USA axles, Yukon Super Joints, Warn Power Plant, Warn bumpers, custom winch plate, and more then I have room to list!

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    Land Squid Jeffb_79's Avatar
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    Yeah, looks like I'll be doing it myself at the hobby shop.
    I only had 35,900 miles on the odometer so thought I lucked out on the warranty. My warranty expired at the 3 year point about 2 months ago. The local jeep dealership gave me a $510 estimate.....

    Only have the stock skids underneath right now, so access shouldn't be too much of a pain. I'll start hitting up the exhaust bolts with the pb blaster a few days before hand.
    What part of the exhaust will I need to remove? Can I get away with just disconnecting the downpipe from the headers and pull it aside, or will I need to remove the whole thing?

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    Well if you could remove the head pipe that would be ideal to get it out of the way. I am sure that just unbolting the pipe from the manifold will work for your application. I couldnt drop my wifes exaust down cause it hit the skid. So in your application I am sure it will be cake. Make sure you put some anti-sieze on those exaust bolts when you put it back together. If you were down here in hurricaine alley you could do it in my garage.
    2006 Rubicon Unlimited, 6" Nth degree LA, RE remote reservoir shocks, 4.88's, Alloy USA axles, Yukon Super Joints, Warn Power Plant, Warn bumpers, custom winch plate, and more then I have room to list!

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    Mountain Valley Customs
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    you shouldn't have to drop you exhaust at all. I just did the rear main seal on my wife's XJ and it has the bone stock exhaust system on it and I didn't have to touch the exhaust.
    Mountain Valley Customs www.mvcustoms.com 570.217.7284
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    Well maybe XJ's are different, but I can say without a doubt that you have to at least unbolt the down pipe from the header. The clearence between the pipe and oil pan is pretty close and you have to be able to drop it far enough to clear the tranny and the oil pickup tube in the pan.

    EDIT: I just checked in alldata pro and it confirms you have to remove the pipe from the manifold, and it also says to unbolt it at the converter to remove the whole assy.
    Last edited by supr_fly03; 09-23-2008 at 16:29.
    2006 Rubicon Unlimited, 6" Nth degree LA, RE remote reservoir shocks, 4.88's, Alloy USA axles, Yukon Super Joints, Warn Power Plant, Warn bumpers, custom winch plate, and more then I have room to list!

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