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Thread: T-150 trans & looking for recommendations

  1. #1
    Fix it until it's broke CrazyHorse6's Avatar
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    Default T-150 trans & looking for recommendations

    This T-150 is currently on a CJ7 with original gears and axles. I stick to moderate off road, just the basics -camping, etc no crawling or anything too aggresive.

    So....My T-150 is getting sloppy and I think in need of a rebuild. I believe the syncro in 2nd is gone, as I can't get it into gear while downshifting w/out a grind unless I flutter the throttle just right. It will also occasionally pop out of first at take off, and there is quite a bit of play in the gear shifter (front, back left and right) while it is in gear.

    I'm looking for recommendations as to a solution - 1) take it to a shop and let them rebuild it or, 2) look around for a completely different swap or another T-150?

    I don't have an issue with the t-150 other than having to shift a little more than say with a 4 spd, but I would like a more solid running trans when its all said and done.
    Thanks!
    GarryOwen!
    CJ7, 258, Dana 20 T-case, Dana 30 & AMC 20, TFI Ignition upgrade, headers, MC 2100 carb, YJ tub mod w/Family Style roll bar...

  2. #2
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    A t176 should swap in and give you a 4 spd. Also if this isn't your DD and you have the time rebuilding it yourself should be fairly straight forward.

    Truck
    Quote Originally Posted by korisu56 View Post
    Im in no position to. Mine doesn't work.
    Quote Originally Posted by miljeep View Post
    Oh, thanks to Nate who stopped by tonight and helped a struggling old bald man pitch a tent.
    83 Scrambler, bought in 94...starting to rust away..."we can rebuild him" Now in pieces all over the garage
    82 Scrambler, bought in 05, chevy 305/TH350/NP205
    86 CUCV Maintanance truck w/12KW PTO driven generator & air compressor
    83 Scrambler-151/T176/D300...basically stock..possible restoration for DD duties

  3. #3
    Fix it until it's broke CrazyHorse6's Avatar
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    Thanks Truck - I was strongy considering the 4spd. This may sound like a stupid question, but if I was to purchase a rebuilt T176 and had it shipped in, would it be literally be as easy as aligning it up and bolting it right back in where the T150 came out? I don't know anything about transmissions so I'm assuming the T176 would bolt right up to the Dana 20?
    Also, am I correct to assume that the transfer case would be less likely to need a rebuild as the 4wd would have been used far less than the 2wd? I don't notice anything odd about the the shifting of the transfer case and it seems to turn freely with no noise when out of gear.
    THanks again!
    Last edited by CrazyHorse6; 10-05-2008 at 09:19. Reason: update
    GarryOwen!
    CJ7, 258, Dana 20 T-case, Dana 30 & AMC 20, TFI Ignition upgrade, headers, MC 2100 carb, YJ tub mod w/Family Style roll bar...

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    Sorry, I don't crap about the D20. All my jeeps have a D300 or NP205. You might have to do a little web search and find out if D20 has same spline count & bolt pattern as D300. If so it should bolt right in.

    Truck
    Quote Originally Posted by korisu56 View Post
    Im in no position to. Mine doesn't work.
    Quote Originally Posted by miljeep View Post
    Oh, thanks to Nate who stopped by tonight and helped a struggling old bald man pitch a tent.
    83 Scrambler, bought in 94...starting to rust away..."we can rebuild him" Now in pieces all over the garage
    82 Scrambler, bought in 05, chevy 305/TH350/NP205
    86 CUCV Maintanance truck w/12KW PTO driven generator & air compressor
    83 Scrambler-151/T176/D300...basically stock..possible restoration for DD duties

  5. #5
    On your SIX! highlandercj-7's Avatar
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    Go with a T-18a (Borg Warrner granny low 4spd) if your going to use a OEM trans. They are the best ever offered in a Jeep. They are backed by the Dana 20 t case some rare 80' model Scouts had a Dana 300 that is a direct bolt on. I beat the snot out of my Dana 20 with a 360 and it's been fine. The T-176 uses a Dana 300 the Dana 20 will not fit withh out an adapter and it's a waste of money to make a 20 fit the 176. The adapter is more expensive than a complete D300 and the D300 is a stronger t case with more gearing and upgrade options.
    Last edited by highlandercj-7; 10-05-2008 at 14:19.
    HighlanderCJ-7

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    Theodore Roosevelt 1907

  6. #6
    Fix it until it's broke CrazyHorse6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by highlandercj-7 View Post
    Go with a T-18a (Borg Warrner granny low 4spd) if your going to use a OEM trans. They are the best ever offered in a Jeep. They are backed by the Dana 20 t case some rare 80' model Scouts had a Dana 300 that is a direct bolt on. I beat the snot out of my Dana 20 with a 360 and it's been fine. The T-176 uses a Dana 300 the Dana 20 will not fit withh out an adapter and it's a waste of money to make a 20 fit the 176. The adapter is more expensive than a complete D300 and the D300 is a stronger t case with more gearing and upgrade options.
    Good info, thanks. I'd like to keep my Dana 20 unless there is a strong reason to replace it (which I don't think right now there is) so I suppose that rules out the T176. So the T-18a is a direct bolt up to the Dana 20.
    Thanks for the good info!
    GarryOwen!
    CJ7, 258, Dana 20 T-case, Dana 30 & AMC 20, TFI Ignition upgrade, headers, MC 2100 carb, YJ tub mod w/Family Style roll bar...

  7. #7
    On your SIX! highlandercj-7's Avatar
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    It is a direct bolt up to everything the bell housing clutch D20 t-case that are on your T-150 are all the same. I replaced my T-150 with a T-18a and it has been one of the best 3 things I ever done to the Jeep. The 6:32 to 1 granny gear is awesome. You will need new drive shafts, the rear is about 1-1.5" shorter (I shorten T150 rears to fit my T-18, my 360 has a nasty habit of popping them in 2) The front drive shaft is longer by around 2" or so. I cut down a rear CJ-8 shaft to fit it, going to the larger tube of the rear shaft, it has held up fine. I plan to step to grand waggy shafts and cut them to fit, when I get my D60-D44 axle combo installed. The Waggy shaft tubes are about 3-4" dia. the CJ's are about 1.5" so there's alot more beef. Also it's way easier to cut one down than to re-tube one and make it longer, you only have to machine one end. I usually machine the slip joint end as it's easier to chuck up in the lathe.
    HighlanderCJ-7

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    Feel free to stand in front of them!

    ...There can be no divided allegiance here. Any man who says he is an American, but something else also, isn't an American at all. We have room for but one flag, the American flag... We have room for but one language here, and that is the English language... and we have room for but one sole loyalty and that is a loyalty to the American people.'
    Theodore Roosevelt 1907

  8. #8
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    Great info HLCJ7. Glad someone who knew about D20 chimed in.

    CH6, if you have to change driveshafts I would keep an eye out for t176/D300 combo as well as a t18. Not pushing it just another option as I don't know how hard a t18 is to find.

    Truck
    Quote Originally Posted by korisu56 View Post
    Im in no position to. Mine doesn't work.
    Quote Originally Posted by miljeep View Post
    Oh, thanks to Nate who stopped by tonight and helped a struggling old bald man pitch a tent.
    83 Scrambler, bought in 94...starting to rust away..."we can rebuild him" Now in pieces all over the garage
    82 Scrambler, bought in 05, chevy 305/TH350/NP205
    86 CUCV Maintanance truck w/12KW PTO driven generator & air compressor
    83 Scrambler-151/T176/D300...basically stock..possible restoration for DD duties

  9. #9
    Fix it until it's broke CrazyHorse6's Avatar
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    Great info guys, thanks very much for all the details. I will keep a look out for both the single T18a or a combo T176 & D300.
    GarryOwen!
    CJ7, 258, Dana 20 T-case, Dana 30 & AMC 20, TFI Ignition upgrade, headers, MC 2100 carb, YJ tub mod w/Family Style roll bar...

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