OK what axles to use TJ upgrade?

[Ghost00TJ]

As in the other post I have a chance to get a rear 8.8 a rear dana 60 and a front 44 (not sure yet drum or disc).

Also could get ford dana 60's front driver side drop and dana 60 rear.

If you all had a chance what axles would you use for your TJ?

What is the costs/ parts involved ie bracket kit, shortening it etc

If it's not listed add it to the list in the thread. Or maybe what years and makes make the best donners.

I'll poll the rear axles that are available around here for about $200-$300

[radjeep]

What tires will you be running, how much lift, how hard will you be driving your jeep?

[Ghost00TJ]

35's when the axles are done maybe a little bigger, trying to keep good for the road.

And I wheel it according to the trail not too tough on it, but I like hard trails.

[greenbean]

I think for that the 60/60 combo would be the best. There already exist a number of vendors that make the additional parts you would need to get that combo under a TJ. If you plan on doing the stock TJ width axles it really is a matter of cutting down the axle tubes to the correct width and welding back on all the mounting brackets. On top of that you can run a true high-steer/crossover setup. But the biggest factor overall would be the brute strength you would have. I know you can get up to 40 spline shafts for the 60, (It will cost of course!) The concern here is that your axles will be so much stronger than the rest of the drivetrain you will really need to look at upgrading all of it as well. Think Atlas or Stak transfer case. With that axle setup and the right suspension I would have no problem rinning 40" tires down the road, why not go big, If set up correctly it would be no issue other than your gearing for the ring and pinions. Anywho if you can get a 60/60 setup, skip the 8.8/44...my 2 cents.

Will

[greenbean]

Let me caveat the 40" tire comment...also consider if you are doing a 40" tire the cost of the tires will probably be double what a 35 would be, depending on the flavor of the tire!

[radjeep]

If you are going to be running 35" tires I would not recommend the D60 front and rear but instead the 8.8 rear with a 44 front. (I think Rubicon Express sells bracket kits for cheap) If you are running 35s and not dealing with extreme hard core wheeling you have no need for a 60. If you ran HP shafts in the 44 and 8.8 you could run 37 tires without a problem.

When running a 60 you also deal with losing ground clearance under the massive pumpkin. What is my experience? I ran 44 f/r on my Jeep, locked with 4.88 gears and 35s without a problem. I now run a 60 f/r because when I started to do rock crawling competitions with my Jeep I was put in situations where I would blow the shafts due to my style of driving and the course set ups. But for regular wheeling and keeping it on road you have no need for the 60.

I think it is poison spyder customs that sells hi-steer for a 44, so it is possible to get that. My recommendation would be the 8.8 rear with a 44 front for what you have now. If you end up with 40s down the road then you probably wont be driving it on the road much anymore anyways so then swap to 60s with appropriate gearing, but like what greenbean mentioned above you will need to upgrade your drive line because the drive shaft will be the weak link then the t-case then the trans... it never ends.

If you go with 60s I would recommend running 1350 U-joints in your shafts, you will have to upgrade the t-case but it will save you in the long run from busting multiple shafts on the trail.

[Ghost00TJ]

thinking the 8.8 and I wouldnt have to worry about it being to wide. loosing the clearance is an issue to me but the stregth of the 60 would be great..................
I think 8.8 may be the trick and with upgrades to it I should be Good to Go.
I really doubt I'll go bigger than 35-36 tires. 8.8 has a good rep so I'll gamble on it being what will suit me.


Now the front 44 is from a waggy he thinks and its drums no drums on the front for me.

[Fred]

OK Larry we talked about this some and I did alot of thinking on the matter. I would suggest a built 9"/D44 combo out of a 70's 1/2 ton ford. The 9" offers a stronger axle than the 8.8 yet less than the D60. It offers a full floating axle meaning no CClips like the 8.8 or DTurdy Five. It offers a HUGE variaty of applications and a huger varity of gearing options (of course your limited to the D44)

Now the D44 offers the strenth of a D44 (get a High Pinion) enev though it is still the same UJoints. The D44 offers a deeper gear selection than the D30, and a greater locker selection. The D44 has a heavier R&P than the D30 and although I NEVER reccommend it you have the ability to weld a D44.

Down side to these choices is the same as any other axles listed, You have to purchase or fabricate brackets to make it work on your TJ. Also these are axles off a full width truck so you will gain width oner stock axles

[Jacob]

I say 8.8/D44 or HP 30 and 35s. Larry, you know if you go anything bigger than 35-36 the trails and most parks around here will be boring and too easy. Like mentioned before, the 60s only start a snowball of money that is really not necessary. You know how to wheel, you should leave some challenges for yourself with what we have to wheel in the area.

[Ghost00TJ]

Im going for the 8.8 it can be built pretty strong, I read a thing on shaving a d60 it then has more clearance than a 44 but the 8.8 will be easier to deal with and plenty strong.

I'll probably go to camdenton this week and look at or pick up the 88 for $150.00 maybe the 44 front also at $150