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Thread: In dash winch control

  1. #1
    Junior Member 1982donald's Avatar
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    Default In dash winch control

    Here is some more good info.

    Lately while winching others I've noticed that the winch remote has been taking a tall lately with regards to getting snagged, connector being jammed and not plugged in correctly (won't mention names), routing of the cable, having the control dangle inside the cab or the cord itself getting in the way.

    Looking at the electric diagram of the winch solenoid block I determined that it would not be too hard to wire up a toggle switch for the winch inside the cab and therefore eliminating my remote problem. I also wanted to make sure that doing any of this would not eliminate the original remote to the winch as it does have it's purpose. I wanted a master switch inside the cab that would activate the toggle switch (I did not want anyone inside looking at the pretty toggle switch, wondering and playing with it to see what it would do).

    Radio Shack has some toggles switches, could not find the right kind. Started to search the web to see if anyone else had done this and I found a two articles with similar installs. One of them mentioned a company that was making the harness that included the master switch, toggle, wiring & instructions for $30.



    The company is called Roadless Gear & the item was called: Dash Mounted Winch Control.

    The kit, I noticed right away that the cord was too short (8 feet) for the way I wanted to route the cable ending at the toggle. I also noticed their master switch would do the job but the entire plate setup was too big to mount anywhere on the dash or console. They did mention that they will make any length of cord as long as they are advised prior to shipping.

    Since I had a slot left on my custom dash switch panel (total of 6), I decided to use the only slot left to work the master switch (providing power to the toggle) and mount the toggle where it could be comfortable enough for me to reach on the console near the shifter. Went to Home Depot and purchased a 25 foot electrical extension cord (16 gauge x 3 wire) which is identical to the one provide with the Roadless Kit. Do not buy rubber wiring by the foot, it is more expensive and rubber does not do well after time inside a hot engine compartment. By the time all was said and done I had used 16 feet of cable.

    BEFORE YOU START: Disconnect the battery terminals, there are A LOT of wires jammed into a small space in your winch solenoid pack, accidentally touching the wrong contacts could activate your winch or short out your electrical system. Check your work before reconnecting the battery.

    WINCH SIDE CONNECTIONS

    I started by first routing the main orange wire (housing the 3 main wires) through the grommet by the firewall, pulled enough through with a foot left over underneath the console to the toggle switch mounting point.



    At this time I also drilled the toggle hole in the console.


    You then route the rest of the orange cable in the engine compartment (to your liking) ending at the winch. Remove the cover from your solenoid pack and note the layout of your solenoids. Notice by the pics below that I routed the orange wire through the existing main lead wires of the winch.





    Below is a diagram on how they are connected to the solenoids.


    There are 4 separate solenoids. These are marked numbered 1-4 in the diagrams. The connections are labeled A-C in the diagrams.
    A is the WHITE wire (power in control), B is the BLACK wire (power out control) and C is the GREEN wire (ground). The mounting points for these wires will always be the small posts of the solenoids.

    Below is a pic of all 3 wires connected.


    Newer model winches (with a 5 conductor remote plug) switch not only the positive, but also the ground wire for safety. Both are required to be activated at the switch for the system to either power in or power out. That way, if a solenoid were to go bad on you, the system would not activate inadvertently. Older model winches (with a 3 wire remote plug) did not switch the ground. If you have this type of winch, you can simply delete the green wire from your connections at the solenoid pack. Note that you will still need a ground at the switch plate under the dash so that your ARM LED will light up.

    SWITCH PLATE CONNECTIONS

    As you can see I used the stock flood light switches from Mopar. Pick these up at a junk yard.



    The wiring for these particular switches are different, you will have to determine ground, 12v in, 12v out to toggle, & dimmer wire. I piggy backed the ground to the switch and ended at the toggle, ran the 12 volt out from the switch to the toggle. I also cut the Roadless face plate to make my own IN & OUT plate. You can see this below.



    Below is a diagram on how it would be for a normal master switch (not the Mopar) and the back of the toggle.



    The toggle switch has connections on the back numbered 1-6.

    #1 & #3 are connected together by a pigtail. This is the ground side of the switch. They are connected together so that when you are using power in or power out, you still get a connection to ground either way. No connection is made when you are not actually using the winch. The pigtail is connected to the main green wire that connects to your solenoid pack.

    #2 is the ground “input” and is connected to the ground connection of the Arm master switch.

    #4 is the power out output, the white wire that goes to your solenoid pack.

    #5 is the 12v positive input and is connected to the load connection of the Arm master switch.

    #6 is the power in output, the black wire that goes to your solenoid pack.

    The Arm master switch has connections on the back numbered 1-3.

    #1 is 12v positive input. Connect to any power source under your dash. IMPORTANT: Do not use a 12v power in that it is ignition switch on. Use a continuous live 12v feed. The reason I say this is because you want to be able to winch yourself in the even that your engine shuts down with ignition off if necessary.

    #2 is the load connection. Jumper wire going from here to #5 on the toggle switch.

    #3 is the ground connection. This a pigtail that has one wire going from here to #2 on the toggle switch. The other wire goes to any good ground source under your dash. I connected to a ground strip that I had previously installed on my firewall.

    Below you can see the finish master switch panel along with the finish toggle location with face plate.





    This install is not that hard to do, the only time consuming part for me was trying to figure out the best way to run the wires and the actual time it took to do it & connecting. Go for it fellows!

    Any good toggle switch, a nice arm switch with arm light right on the switch, a 25 foot electrical extension cord 16 gauge X 3, a few connectors, less than $30. It is not the only solution but..... darn hard to beat.


    =========================================================


    The ARB locker switch I believe fits in the stock oem dash switch panel. They are made by Carling Switches. The model name is V-Series: Contura II & III .

    The problem is I don't know which amp/volt rating they are buying so you might want to give them a call. They also make toggle switches which a 20amp should be ok. After you get the info, post it here if you get a chance to give them a call. After you get the part number that you should buy, do a search on the Web under Carling Switches and quite a few web sites will sell them.
    81 CJ 7
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    9000lb warn winch

  2. #2
    Administrator/Jarhead Jeeper USMCHarleyJeepGuy's Avatar
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    Sweet mod...thanks for sharing Bro!
    Marines...shoot me a PM if you have not received an invitation to the Jarhead Jeepers social group on this site and would like to be a member.

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  3. #3
    Recovery Whore RescueJP's Avatar
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    I have been wanting to do this for a while.this and my efan kit
    1981 CJ7- 4in lift on 33's, Twin sticked dana300, aussied D30, Custom bumpers,Herced inside. Riddler covers.

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    Member warthog_cj7's Avatar
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    Nice, thanks
    Dan M.

    '85 CJ-7, 4.0L,T18,4.10s,35s,Fully locked,winch,cage

  5. #5
    Senior Member CutterN55's Avatar
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    Good write-up and GREAT Work! Thanks for sharing. Got my gears turning now...
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