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Thread: Full width or not full width....that is the question

  1. #1
    K to the P Marine_mike's Avatar
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    Default Full width or not full width....that is the question

    Here's the vehicle specs:
    91 YJ 4.0 HO 152000 miles
    TF999/231 w/SYE
    D30 W/ xj Pass shaft 4.56 Lockrite locker
    8.8 4.56 Detroit locker
    35x12.5 Baja Claws on 15x10 4" BS black steelies
    4.5" RE lift and 1" BL
    6 point Cage
    Tube Fenders...etc...etc

    The situation:
    Hub bearings in my D30 are on there way out. I am replacing my D30 with a ford d44.
    Options:
    1) Have the D44 cut down to match the 8.8 and use some waggy shafts, and get some spacers to change the BP from 5.5 to 4.5 to match the wheels and 8.8.
    2) Sell my d30 and 8.8 as a pair, get the d60, don't cut the d44, and go full width. Find some new wheels too for 5.5 BP.

    I work in Iraq, but when I wheel my jeep, I kinda push it to it's full ability. My wife drives the jeep when I am not home, but not that often, so it needs to be streetable without making it too difficult for her to drive (especially with the kids).

    Mind you... I'm not doing the work... someone else is. (and I wont be home for a couple of months) Wich is less expensive, more reliable, and makes more... sense? Could you guys post some pics of full width YJs for me. This is a dilemma I cannot get outta my mind.

    Here's what she looks like now:
    Attached Images Attached Images
    For over 221 years our Corps has done two things for this great Nation. We make Marines and we win battles.
    óGen Charles C. Krulak, 31st CMC, 5 May 1997

  2. #2
    Land Squid Jeffb_79's Avatar
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    I vote go full width.
    I'd probably go up an " or 2 in tire size though with the 60.
    Of course, now it starts to get pretty expensive.
    Another option, get the 44, and put a 9" in the back. Would probably end up being cheaper in that you won't feel the need to run 37" tires to keep your rear diff from dragging.

  3. #3
    K to the P Marine_mike's Avatar
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    I know everyone is sleeping right now... but chime in when you get the chance.... especially you crazy4ink.
    For over 221 years our Corps has done two things for this great Nation. We make Marines and we win battles.
    óGen Charles C. Krulak, 31st CMC, 5 May 1997

  4. #4
    Squeal Like a Pig Ross's Avatar
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    Full width vs reg would depend on where you wheel. I wheel on tight trailers so going full width wouln't work for me.

  5. #5
    Recovery Whore RescueJP's Avatar
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    Deff goin to have to go up a few tiresizes if you wanna run 60s
    1981 CJ7- 4in lift on 33's, Twin sticked dana300, aussied D30, Custom bumpers,Herced inside. Riddler covers.

    RIPTrail-87yj 35MTR

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    Member JimhatTJ's Avatar
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    full with and 40's, drives fine.

    was doing 75 on the interstate lastnight.
    03 Rubicon, 6.0L Chevy, 700R4, 241, ORI struts, custom F&R dual traiangulated longarms, 39.5 Irok, frame backhalf, 35 Spline Ford 60's, Full Hydro steering, 110"wb
    05 TJ (salvage), 6.0L aluminum head Chevy with LS1 parts (@400hp) , 4L60E, home made longarm on 14" SAW coilovers, 35 spline Dana 60's, 100"wb

  7. #7
    Recovery Whore RescueJP's Avatar
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    60's on 40's is my plan as well
    1981 CJ7- 4in lift on 33's, Twin sticked dana300, aussied D30, Custom bumpers,Herced inside. Riddler covers.

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  8. #8
    Got Your Back jeepinjp's Avatar
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    Depends on the wheelin you do ??? Obviously 60`s are the best route for hard core crawlin, but a 44 with alloys is no slouch either....the 8.8 is a decent rear ,has some issues but you already know that...As for streetability concerns your presently running a detroit in the rear !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    Alot depends also on funds and how you use the skinny pedal, you could throw new bearings and alloys in the 30 but with 35`s if you like the skinny pedal it probably wont last...or you can put in new quality bearings and stock up on axle shafts its only a 5 minute fix on the trail...

    You can also use scout 44`s which work well the diff is centered but is in the same spot as the yj
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  9. #9
    ZJ mallcrawler wheeler
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    for my .02 cents:
    Full width is only roughly 6" wider if you go with Waggy axles. I would go with front and rear Waggy 44's, not Rubi's as the axle tubes are still smaller diameter like the 30/35's.
    Skip the 60 so you don't have rear clearance issues andhave to lug around all that weight. If the Waggy 44's start snapping shafts, go chromoloy. I would also go with a Detriot out back and an E locker up front. Make your life simple when at home, because life will get complicated when you are at work.

    Damien(Mousee on here, from Mountain Valley Customs), last I knew, was running Chebby full widths and his rig was totally streetable. I drove Crazy4ink's TJ when he was full with on 36's and it was very road-mannered.
    building a better grocery getter; one broken bolt and snapped Dana 35 shaft at a time

    USAF/AD AMMO 1997-2008 IYAAYAS!
    Alaska ANG/AGR recruiter 2008-present

  10. #10
    K to the P Marine_mike's Avatar
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    I decided to have use a 1977 f250 d44 housing, cut down with early bronco or scout shafts (which ever I get my hands on) and a 77 f150 BP. The 8.8 is going to get the super 88 kit to change it to 5.5 BP. I'll keep my tires and just find some steelies with the right BP. Here's the grocery list as it stands:

    Dana 44 Overhaul Kit, TIMKEN BEARINGS!!! $85.00
    D44 Yukon Ring And Pinion, Reverse Rotation 4.56 $197.00
    Dana 44 Chrome Moly 4340 Axle Set With Spicer U-Joints! $325.00
    Warn Lock-Outs, Premium Pair $95.00
    Super 88 axle kit $599.00
    Cheepo steelies $100

    Total is $1401.00

    That's not including shipping. All I can say is OUCH!
    For over 221 years our Corps has done two things for this great Nation. We make Marines and we win battles.
    óGen Charles C. Krulak, 31st CMC, 5 May 1997

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